Long story short; I bought a pc from a second hand market. It got completely destroyed during shipping. It got covered so no worries there, but im still left with some broken parts I'd like to fix. Among them is this Noctua cooler. This has been heavily bent, is it safe to bend it back again or is it going to require a lot of heat?

Thanks for any suggestions!

UPDATE :

Getting close! Surprisingly easy to vend back fix sone very slowly. Hoping to test it soon.

So back a few years ago the SK hynix Gold P31 was the GOAT for laptops due to the low idle wattages and low usage wattages. This allowed you to squeeze about 10% extra battery life out of your laptop.

Is that still considered the best M.2 drives for laptops in terms of power usage?

This has been my reliable Power Supply for my Battle Station from 2018 until now. Today when I turned on my RIG, she didn't post... or do anything.

Tested this PSU on my older Motherboard, it didn't post, and when I took my SO's PSW it did.

I think my RIG will be fine, it was working with my older PSW. But only time (and a new PSW) will tell.

I'm looking to buy an RX 9060 XT and was hoping to collect more sources comparing different models. I'm mainly looking for noise & temperature comparisons between the base models available.

So far the best source I found is Techpowerup. They have comparisons for stock behaviour and noise normalised between the 6 models they tested. Sapphire Radeon RX 9060 XT Pulse OC 16 GB Review
Unfortunately, they've mostly tested the huge triple fan designs until now. From the base models, the Reaper has terrible cooling and the Sapphire Pulse unfortunately only offers 1 DisplayPort connector.

Hardware Unboxed also only compares 3 higher end models in their review. AMD Radeon RX 9060 XT 16GB Review, Gaming Benchmarks!

Does anyone have reviews for the other base models, XFX Swift (dual fan) and ASRock Challenger?

I accidentally moved my PC while the antenna cables were caught on something, leading to them ripping. would I be able to just solder the connector bit to the cable?

I've already posted this on a forum on pcpartpicker but no one replyed;

hello everyone tks for clicking on my post. so i have a laptop I've using for 2years now just watching learning video editing by watching tutorials on it and i found out that video editing apps are very demanding specially adobe apps.. my dell latitude 5590 re-brushed i bought for 3000 Moroccan DH (around 300$) ( i5 8th gen / 8gb ram / intel UHD graphics 620) can't run these apps.. so i find myself obligated to build a PC. but i have a low budget so I'm gonna need to buy re-brushed parts. I'm new to this.. I'm asking for your help guys!!

I just wanna build a PC that can run premiere and after effects smoothly for video editing at 1080p I don't edit at 4k so i don't need a super build.

Note: the budget below is just for the PC not the Peripherals too.

• Budget: 400$ - 600$
• Location: Morocco
• Use : video editing (premiere and after effects).
• Peripherals required (monitor, keyboard/mouse, etc): since it's my first build i need everything the mouse, the keyboard, and the monitor.
• Operating System required: windows 11 pro.

I want in advance to thank everyone in this forum who give his time in effort to help nobs like me! much respect for you guys!

This makes it much easier to set your screen's brightness to a comfortable level at each time of the day, and to save energy.

(For Windows, see the very bottom of this post.)

On Linux, if you currently have no keyboard shortcuts for that available, a good way to create them is via ddcutil. Once you have ddcutil installed, have your displays' properties printed in the command line by typing ddcutil detect.

This should show you a list of parameters for each of the displays you have connected. For a display of your choice, try these commands:

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 - 5 # reduces brightness by 5 %
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 + 5 # increases brightness by 5 %

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 12 - 10 # reduces contrast by 10 %
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 12 + 10 # increases contrast by 10 %

ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 0 # sets brightness to minimum
ddcutil -n <Serial number> setvcp 10 100 # sets brightness to maximum

If these commands all work, you can create in your desktop environment's settings (e.g. KDE) custom keyboard shortcuts that execute these commands. Personally, with my two displays and with dedicated "Brightness up" and "Brightness down" keys (macros) on my keyboard, I am using combinations with the modifiers Alt to address the secondary instead of the primary display, Shift, to adjust contrast instead of brightness, and Control to set an absolute value (0% or 100%) instead of going by increments.

Further notes:

Instead of addressing your displays via their serial number, you can also address your display via most other parameters shown in ddcutil detect by using another option than -n, e.g. via bus number or manufacturer name, but I've found that bus number is not persistent over the years, and manufacturer name ("Mfg id") may contain spaces which may lead to problems.

A full list of all other possible vcp commands (the numbers after setvcp) can be obtained through ddcutil vcpinfo.

If you're using a laptop, brightness adjustments for its internal screen are of course almost always a no-brainer.

On Windows 10 and perhaps 11 as well, you can apparently do the following:

Step 1: Press the Win + A to open the Action Center.

Step 2: Press Shift + Tab to select the brightness slider.

Step 3: Use the left and right arrow keys to adjust the screen brightness.

I'm coming from a Logitech G815.

What I liked:

• low profile keycaps and body;
• aluminum body;
• USB port to plug my mouse into it instead of into the PC;
• backlit;

What I disliked:

• switches (presses would register way before feedback);
• proprietary app for macros, and other configs;

What I'm looking for:

• mechanical tactile/clicky;
• backlighting (through the keycap, as I need to see the keys I'm pressing);
• smaller form factor but with tenkey;
• shipped to and from EU;
• wired;
• US international layout;

What I'd like on top, but I can compromise:

• low profile keycaps and body;
• RGB backlighting;
• aluminum body;
• adult/sleek design;

Usage will be gaming (no competitive) and a lot of typing. Budget is the main problem, as I'd like to spend no more than 100-125€ but can stretch it to 150€ if it means having more criteria met.

What I looked at so far: Logitech, but the prices aren't quite there and I wasn't happy with the G815's switches; Keychron, but most of them don't seem to have lighting that goes through the keycaps?; Akko, seem to have the same "issue"; Monsgeek, seems to be more niche stuff and I can't find a small + 10key form factor.

Thanks in advance!

Left is idle, right is under full gaming load (Helldivers 2). My previous rig (Intel) easily went up to 85-90°C in the same circumstances. Ambient temps are slightly elevated as well since we've been having ~30°C temps daily here for a while now.

To me this is almost ridiculous. I had never dreamed I could get my temps under load under 70. CPU is at stock speed since there is literally no reason to push it any further at this point. Can always choose to up the clocks later if I still want to.

Cooler is a Noctua NH-D15 G2. I don't see myself returning to watercooling any time soon. And Noctua has a new customer for life.

I have a 3DConnexion Spacemouse. I bought it, and use it, for CAD work, but I'm drunk enough to think it'd be fun to play Satisfactory with. What do you think I'd need to do to map it to a controller or something? Am I gonna have to fuck around with the Python library? It's been awhile since I've fucked around with a Python library.

I have an MSI MAG x870e Tomahawk WiFi mobo, and the temperature LED is just, like, SO bright.

I don't see an obvious way of changing its brightness or turning it off in the BIOS, so I'm thinking of cutting a 1"x0.5" rectangle of ND-8 photo gel and electrical taping it to the light.

Anyone know of a better way?

Hi. I plan to upgrade my cpu from ryzen 5 5600x to ryzen 7 5800x3d. At first i asking chatgpt is my motherboard asrock B450m steel legend support 5800x3d or not. The answer really make me confused. It say related to bios. At first it said not compatible then second time asking it say compatible. Can i get everyone expert who know a lot more about pc. Is my bios ready for 5800x3d?

From msinfo32: BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. P10.31, 8/22/2024

Thank you

I have a B450 motherboard, 16gb DDR4 3200 RAM, 1660 Super gpu and a Ryzen 5 2600 CPU. I don't plan on updating the GPU this time, because I don't play a lot of games that require anything more, I'm playing a lot of older titles currently. The problem is this also makes me feel like I shouldn't update the pc at all.

I think I mostly just want to mess around with a decent home lab, but because I dont have an intended use case I'm struggling to justify. I also had parents who don't like to spend money on this sort of thing and I've got their disapproving voices in my head.

The plan is to upgrade to a 5900XT and 64 gb of ram and probably run a lot of virtual machines in a little lab environment but I'm not sure how often I'll have them all running so it could be overkill. The upgrade is about $700 all up too so not small but not too much. I know I'm extending the lifespan of a computer instead of e-wasting the entire thing but I'm still a little apprehensive.

Good idea or nah?

P.S. I run Linux Mint on all my machines if that somehow changes anyone's mind or is somewhat helpful? Can't let the arch users be the only ones to announce.

Edit: thanks for the replies. I went to bed so I'll try to reply to people as today goes. Thanks for the ideas and the one person who asked if I was a sex worker, you've made me laugh and think.

Specs: CPU: Rysen 5 7600 GPU: RX 7700 XT RAM: 32 GB DDR5 5600mt/s Mobo: B650 Eagle AX Case: H5 Flow RGB Cooler: Arctic Freezer 36 A-RGB PSU: System Power 10 750w

Okay I need some ideas. Firstly, this is a work computer and I do not have admin privileges. Second I'm doing this solely for my convenience.

We have a Dell Latitude 3540 and I'm running a generic second monitor that we happend to have around. We do not have a docking station, so we're using a spare Samsung K550 Soundbar to upscale the resolution on the second monitor through the ARC TV HDMI port. So it's, HDMI out from the laptop to the sound bar and then ARC HDMI out to the monitor. The issue, the sound bar goes to sleep after 5 minutes of no sound and I can't disable the auto off feature. This shuts off the feed to the second monitor and it doesn't resume automatically. I think if I can find some kind of timer that will send some sort of sound to the bar every 4 1/2 minutes or so, then it will stay active. I don't know how to do this. Does anyone have suggestions? TIA Tug

Built this while shopping for a new monitor last month. PCPartPicker has a nice tool to find monitors, but it was missing things like rtings.com scores, number and type of ports, live prices, so I decided to build one.

Writing this down because I'm not the only one having trouble with the unusual CMOS battery holder of certain HP OEM boards, in my case a HP Dorado OC Rev B motherboard from an Omen 30L or Omen 25L PC. Their battery holders are weird compared to others in that one cannot just push some lever to release the battery (cf. this Reddit thread). It turns out that the correct method apparently is to just wedge the battery out from below (there is ample of room between it and the board to fit a tool), as is shown in this video from minute 40:00 onward. It seems that a bit of force is actually necessary:

https://players.brightcove.net/1160438706001/ByLWUi0A_default/index.html?videoId=ref%3AREFIDNS35791002

(The video is linked on HP's support pages here (under "Service & Repairs (2) > Removing & Replacing Parts: OMEN by HP 40L Gaming Desktop PC"), so it seems to apply not just to Omen 40L's, but in fact also to Omen 30L's. The CMOS battery holder of my 30L does in fact look identical to the one from the 40L in the video. Everything at your own risk, obviously.)

For me, it worked like a charm and didn't even require as much force as I feared.

Im using PieFed https://join.piefed.social/ and i was very happy that it supports this Font by itself. I always download it and use it everywhere. Just download and click install, that works on Linux, Mac and Windows.

I didnt find a relevant PC instance so lets just say: Console Peasants cant even change their Fonts! xD

https://www.brailleinstitute.org/freefont/

Sorry to have to make a post about this but it’s one of those things you need to be familiar with and I’m not.

I’m looking to upgrade from a 2060 Super to a Radeon as I’m mostly using Linux now. I’m not too fussed about buying new and I’d like to keep the cost down but if I’m changing I’d like to by something noticeably better than what I have. Any idea what’s a good buy in the market right now? I don’t care about ray-tracing.

Hi all. I know this isn't a support community, but Lemmy is only so big so I hope it's ok if I post about this here.

I have a a Dell Inspiron 7375 laptop. The processor is a Ryzen 7 2300U. It only has integrated graphics. It was purchased new in 2018. Right out of the gate brand spanking new, it would frequently BSOD at seemingly random times, even when the laptop was not under any noticeable stress...just browsing the web watching YouTube videos or even editing Google Docs.

Most of the BSODs would state "video TDR failure", but others happened as well (don't remember them all, sorry. Dell Support was never able to figure solve my problem...especially difficult to the intermittent nature

However, I found that I could help alleviate 90% of the issue by limiting the maximum processor state in control panel to 80%".

Fast forward to today and I upgraded my setup and no longer need this laptop. I installed Linux Mint on it and find that the system will randomly freeze up until I power cycle it just like when I first got it for Windows. Ubuntu yields the same issue. I have not tried many other distros.

Again, I found out that the problem was resolved by downloading a software tool to manually limit the clock speed of the processor. However, I do NOT like the idea of relying on a random third party software tool that may eventually break.

There is no way for me to underclock the CPU in the BIOS.

The internals are not dusty and have been cleaned with compressed air.

I would like to give my laptop away to a relative and would like to keep Linux Mint on it for them.

Is there a better solution to my issue without relying on software that may stop working in the future? What would be the cause of the laptop freezing unless the CPU is limited, even as a brand new system?

Thanks all.

I needed a PSU that was efficient at 20W and so I consulted Wolfgang's PSU Low Idle Efficiency List, because it was one of the first results on YouTube. However, the first thing you may notice is that the reports it links to are no longer in the same place on Cybenetics' website. If you manually check the PSU model on their website, you actually get different numbers for 20W. After having this revelation, I scraped the entire website and found that Wolfgang's data is no longer current. I don't know why after a second evaluation Cybenetics had different results, but am inviting you to ask with me.

Here are the top 150:

European here. I'm pretty content with my setup (Ryzen5 3600XT, 16GB RAM, GTX 1060... I play in 1080p) for the games I'm playing at the moment, and I don't plan on playing many AAAA games in the future. BUT. With the recent tariffs flying around, China denying rare earths, etc etc I fear we might see an increase in hardware prices like we had with covid, so I was thinking on upgrading at least CPU+VGA; more than FOMO let's say is Fear Of Being Overpriced. What do you think, should I upgrade now that things looks a little more relaxed? Will the whole mess involve only the USA or everyone cause globalization?