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Toyota trials hydrogen-powered vehicle on public roads in Australia
(japantoday.com)
This is a most excellent place for technology news and articles.
I agree with everything you said except the retrofitting... I don't think retrofitting an ICE is going to be remotely possible for any price anyone would be willing to pay. Sure they both have a "gas tank" of sorts, but as you mentioned, a hydrogen vehicle is ultimately an electric vehicle... And electric motors and their supporting components are quite different than ICEs.