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Why does filament not stick to the glass?
(midwest.social)
You can see where around corners and even some straight runs it is peeling up. I'm running first layer at an agonizing 15 mm/s. Using hatchbox pla filament, just dried in dehydrator. 200° nozzle and 70° bed. The glass is freshly cleaned with soap and water, I just did several atomic pulls, I've trammed at different heights using a feeler gauge, and absolutely nothing is working. Any one have any ideas?
Is that just bare glass? I've never seen anyone have consistent luck getting filament to stick on that except when using hairspray or glue sticks. You'd be better off with borosilicate glass, or you could get a sheet of G10 and put a PEI sticker on it (unless you're using nylon filament). If you have a magnetic sheet on your bed you can also get PEI on spring steel.
It is borosilicate, which is a decision I've come to regret. Using hair spray and glue sticks works, but is so messy to clean
I've had mixed results myself. When I first got my Ender 3 I picked up the Creality glass and it was amazing, everything stuck without much effort, and popped loose once the glass cooled down for a few. After a couple years I started wearing out the surface texture so I picked up a new piece from the same seller. Nothing would stick to it no matter what I did (other than hairspray, but I agree -- yuck!) so I finally started experimenting with other plates. The G10 is good stuff and pretty cheap if you're willing to cut it to size yourself, but I still had some issues with it not sticking as good as my original glass. Meanwhile I switched my printer over to a direct drive head which really threw a curveball in my settings so I pretty much had to work everything out from scratch again. I ended up dropping a PEI sticker on top of the G10 and that seems to have solved most of the problems.
That's one of the bad things about the current state of 3D printers -- it's not ALL about the nozzle gap, there are other factors that come into play. I can set my gap in my sleep to within a few hundredths of a mm these days, but the same settings I used with the original head don't work the same with the new one. So if you changed something right before you started having adhesion problems, it likely means you'll have to play with your slicer settings to find what works now. It sucks, but I guess that's the price we pay to be able to make things out of nothing.