GEM Days 3a/14: 1924 Shovelhead – Tue 19 Nov 2024

• Brush: Dogwood Handcrafts - Papa Eld with Declaration Grooming B3
• Razor: Ever-Ready 1924 Shovelhead
• Blade: Personna GEM PTFE
• Lather: Barrister and Mann – Eigengrau
• Post Shave: House of Mammoth – Santa Noir
• Fragrance: Declaration Grooming – Bangarang

This is shave five of my run through all 14 generations of GEM-style razors, and I have reached the 1924 Shovelhead, the ugly duckling of the GEM family.

The 1924 Shovelhead

This is a simplified version of yesterday's 1914. It finally breaks with the visual similarity thatthe 1912 and 1914 shared and marks the first appearance of cast parts (the neck between the handle and the base plate) in GEM-style razors razors. This picture (the 1924 Shovelhead is on the bottom left, the 1914 on the top right) shows well that like the 1914, it has what looks like a deep-drawn top cap, but it is hinged at the front on either side of the safety bar, and like the 1914 is has separate springs for pushing the spine to align the edge with the blade stops (blue 1) and for clamping down the top cap (red 2). So both razors are attempts at two improvements over the 1912: 1) the top cap opens fully for convenient blade loading, 2) the actions of clamping and aligning the blade are decoupled. So what's the improvement of the 1924 Shovelhead over the 1914 when they seek the same goal? It certainly can't be the looks.

It seems to me that the reason is manufacturing cost. This profile picture shows well just how much simpler the base plate of the Shovelhead really is. Again, the 1924 is on the left and the 1914 on the right. The base plate of the 1914 is a sheet of brass, bent almost to close on itself again, and has a tapped thread for the handle, three rivets, and two hinges and requires quite involved tooling to be assembled efficiently. The Shovelhead on the other hand, has all the complicated geometry concentrated in the cast neck (where the complicated geometry doesn't matter as much at scale), and the base plate is a roughly flat sheet of brass riveted on the neck. Simple, but it left no space for the clamping spring under the base plate, so it needed to go on the top cap, and the hinge needed to move to the front. Cleverly, the clamping spring and the alignment springs are cut from the same sheet and are attached with just 2 rivets, unlike the to separate parts forming the springs in the 1914 needing 4 rivets.

The shave

I like to hike in the mountains, and Eigengrau immediately takes me to evening winter hikes in the Valaisan alps in the conifer forests just under the tree line. It's a very dry area, so the snow cover is often incomplete until well into January, and the thick layer of conifer needle humus lies there mostly exposed and fragrant. You can see the tracks of snow rabbits and chamois in the snow patches, and when the sun starts to set everything quiets down. Peaceful. Bangarang is not at all a winter fragrance, and also more lively than serene Eigengrau.

The 1924 feels similar to the 1914, with maybe a little less toast buttering. It's not surprising that they feel similar, given how they have a similar geometry and the same handle.

The handle

If I remember correctly, it was this pencil handle that felt too small for u/EldrormR, so he chopped off the head of an MMOC (Tomorrow's razor), drilled it, cemented a thread post into it, and slapped it onto a 1924 head to create what we now know and love as the MM24. I'll be using that variant for the Second Luxury Shave.

The timeline

1. ~~1906-1953: GEM 1912/Star Cadet/Junior/Damaskeene~~
   • FLS
   • SLS
2. ~~1914-1927: 1914~~
   • FLS
   • SLS
3. 1924-1933: Shovelhead ← We are here
4. 1930-1932: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 1 (Bumpless baseplate)
5. 1932-1941: Micromatic Open Comb Gen 2 (double-edge Micromatic GEM blades)
6. 1940-1943: Micromatic Clog-Pruf
7. 1945-1946: Micromatic Clog-Pruf Peerless
8. 1947-1950: Micromatic Flying Wing/Bullet Tip, with guiding eye until 1948, with plastic knob in the last year
9. 1949-1953: GEM Jewel/Streamline/Ambassador (The beginning of the end IMHO)
10. 1950: New GEM Feather Weight, renamed to "Slim-V Flat Top" in 1953, British version sold as "Natural Angle" by Ever-Ready
11. 1955-1958: GEM V-Slim "Heavy Flat Top" (G-Bar, shiny chrome), New V Natural Angle Heavy Flat Top (E-Bar, less shiny nickel)
12. 1958-1965: Push Button
13. 1965-1973: Contour
14. 1973-1979: Countour II (The last GEM razor)