The “great American road trip” has often been romanticized in popular culture. For Black travelers, however, navigating the highways around the United States has never been easy, as they tend to encounter racism just for driving while Black. In the Jim Crow era of segregation, when there was no safe place for them to eat, Black travelers would pack premade meals and nonperishable food items in shoeboxes for lunch. The Negro Motorist Green Book, also known simply as the Green Book, was published in 1936 by postal employee and travel writer Victor Hugo Green to address this issue. This book was born out of the idea of helping Black travelers to find safe places to eat and sleep while traveling across the United States, especially in the South, where Jim Crow was the law of the land.
The legacy of these hospitable gas stations is rooted in Black resilience and resourcefulness, highlighting the determination of Black travelers to enjoy their journeys despite the discrimination they face. Over time, some communities and businesses have made efforts to support Black travelers, like the Standard Oil Company of New Jersey, now known as ExxonMobil. Not only were stops at Standard Oil throughout the South featured in the Green Book; the company also encouraged Black people to open franchise gas stations starting in the 1950s.
Horatio Thompson became the first black man to own an Esso franchise in the South after he opened Horatio’s Esso Service Station #2 in the 1940s in Scotlandville, Louisiana. According to food writer and historian Deb Freeman, Southern gas station food and Black culture intersect thanks in part to the Green Book and to Black gas station owners serving traditional Southern meals that one might cook at home, like fried chicken, corn bread, okra, and collard greens.
“We have a culture around eating, and it doesn’t matter if you have to drive 20 minutes,” said Freeman. “I think that there’s just a really special relationship where we want to make sure that we can have proximity to good food at all times. The gas station restaurant serves as a source for feeding the community.”
Today Southern gas stations are a food mecca that reflect the diverse culinary traditions of the region. When I was traveling from New Orleans to Houston on a Greyhound bus in 2017, I was able to get my hands on the tastiest boudin ball, a regional snack of fried boudin sausage mixed with cooked pork, rice, onions, and seasonings at Rascal’s Cajun Express in Rayne, Louisiana. The I-10 highway between Baton Rouge and Texas is where you’ll be able to find some of the best boudin balls and sausage at most gas stations.
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