Join our groupbuy: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/born-of-forest-seasons-of-sylvan-splendor

Hi everyone,

Bring focused nature back to desk time. Layered resin trees, moss texture and flowing water form a compact forest inside each keycap.

• Keycap sizes: 1u / 2.25u (enter) / 2.25u (left-shift) / 6.25u (spacebar)
• 4 designs
• Profiles : SA & Droplet
• Payment: PP / CC
• Price at start: $55

Offered in 1u, Enter / Left Shift (2.25u) and Spacebar (6.25u) for a coherent scene line. Group buy ends August 17, 2025. Join now to secure matched color and early allocation.

I finally have my Chouchou keyboard (partly) put together, and now i'm trying to set up the firmware for the Taipo layout. This is my first mechanical keyboard so I'm pretty new to QMK.

I followed this page up to the part where i use qmk compile, when it complains that keymap.c for Taipo says to include "dlip.h", which is missing. I don't know what that file is supposed to be, and i don't see anything like that here where i got the keymap file.

I can rename dlip/config.h to dlip.h and put it in ~/qmk_firmware/quantum, but then the console complains that every key is "undeclared here (not in a function)".

So what's this dlip.h file that i can't find? What are the other files at that second link for? How am i supposed to tell this keyboard how the keys are chorded?

Thanks in advance.

For some reason or another, a whole third of all mechanical keyboards in the biggest local computer retailer's online store, are Ducky. Probably because they have ISO and ANSI layouts, a lot of colors, different sizes, and different switches. And they're ordered from abroad when bought, not stocked locally. So loads of choice and no cost showing them as available.

So since my only real options here if I want a full keyboard or TKL with blue switches are a couple of different Ducky models (one 3, Shine 7) in various colors, I'm wondering if anyone has personal experience with Ducky? I've read both praise and hate online, so can't really make heads or tails of the quality.

Hello everyone, I've managed to burn up three keyboards in the last week or so. All of them were kinda old, so its not that surprising, but still kinda annoying. Two of them died gracefully, specific keys just stopped working. I could fix them, but I don't feel like those boards are worth the effort. They aren't swappable keys, so I'd have to solder new keys on.

I want a new mechanical keyboard that has a physical volume knob, and I also really like backlit keys that shine through the letters. Can anyone provide any recommendations? I'm not opposed to building one, but I have not done that yet.

I've built a Lily58 pro with helios controllers and have been tinkering with it for the last month.

I have been trying to implement the QMK Caps Word feature but have been having problems getting it to work using the "Invert on shift" function. When double pressing Shift to activate Caps Word, time out doesn't work and Shift+'kc' does not produce lowercase letters as expected.

Caps Word functions as expected with #define CAPS_WORD_INVERT_ON_SHIFT commented out.

Is Invert on shift broken? Or am I missing something?

TL;DR: This is a ramble about my old and new keyboards, with some finger pain along the way.

• Hotswap has it's drawbacks
• QMK is nice
• I like macro keys

Due to my job and love for gaming, I spend quite a bit of time in front of a keyboard. With that in mind (and also some enabling colleagues) I went on a big long search for the perfect keyboard. Quickly I became interested in split designs and finally pulled the trigger on a Mistel Barocco MD770. It's now 1.5 years later, and this text was not typed on the Mistel.

The old

The Mistel Barocco MD770 is a super nice keyboard. I like the clean look, the split form factor and the fact that I can 'merge' it into a 'normal' keyboard. This saves me from messing with the whole keymap when gaming. What I had to fiddle with however, was the keybinds while not gaming. There is no GUI for that and you have to do it by combinations of key presses. It worked, but I had to check the manual every time I wanted to change something. Also the bluetooth connection often took some time (no issues when wired) to get going. So it had it's minor drawbacks, but not enough for me to go out searching again. After over a year with the board however, an issue pressing enough came up.

The issue

Being a gamer all my life, I never really had issues with hand or finger pain. But getting older and/or really diving into FPS about half a year ago messed with that. After longer gaming sessions I started to notice pain in the fingers of my left hand. Since I also do climbing, it took quite some time for me to figure out, that in fact the gaming is the issue. It seems I press WASD like a mad man when running around. Press less hard then - duhhh! I tried, but the MX Brown switches just didn't give the feedback my fingers needed.

I like climbing, I like gaming and I wanted this fixed quickly. My best idea, apart from tying to press less hard, was to find switches with a clearer feedback. This is when I discovered, that the Mistel sadly does NOT have a hotswap PCB. Which leads us to chapter three.

The new

With virtually endless options for keyboards and some money to throw at the problem, I was not quite ready to desolder my whole keyboard. So I went out there with my requirements figured out:

• split layout that can mesh together (for the reason above)
• hotswap (because that's what made me end up here)
• staggered is fine
• QMK support
• (macro keys)

The rest was mostly a gut decision - I found the Keychron Q11, liked the mostly clean look and the macro keys and just went with it.

With it I ordered some Cherry MX ERGO CLEAR, some cheapish keycaps that at least support this split layout and some O-rings. Most important answer first: Yes it helped with the finger pain! The actuation point is way more recognizable and the O-rings make the bottom out a lot less hard. I love the switches and also the sound is quite nice. The dedicated macro keys including a GUI to set them all up are also a major improvement in my books. I use them for media management and some undo-redo action which is super convenient. The keyboard itself is also quite beefy with its aluminuim body - not a super big deal but it feels nice. Last thing I want to talk about are the hotswap sockets: You just push in your switches and are ready to go - sounds super easy. And it is. Unless you don't have any feeling in your fingers (duhhh again) and just smash them in. I broke some sockets. Nothing that could not be fixed with some solder, but I was not even aware that this is an option. My fault but still something to watch out for at least.

I bought a cheap Durgod Hades with the intention of sticking the QMK/VIA firmware on it.

First issue was getting it into the bootloader - the instructions didn't seem to be working, so I was trying different connection points and implements until it finally kicked into life. In doing that I suspect I may have killed the STM32... but I'm not sure.

Using dfu-util I've tried :unprotect:force and :mass-erase:force to try and recover it, and also downloaded STM32Cube to see if I have more luck with that.

dfu-util, no matter what I do, hangs at the erase point 0%. Eventually it times out with an error.

STM32Cube connects to the keyboard but complains it's in read-only or reset held. If I try again with the suggested Read Unprotect option it says I need to power off and power on the device, and the cycle continues.

So I think I've somehow bust it, is there anything else I can try before admitting defeat and getting another one?

My Ergodox #mechanicalkeyboard and CST #trackball @mechanicalkeyboards

My favorite layout got hall effect support so I had to pick up another one. Very surprised with how they feel as this is my first hall effect keyboard

Someday I look forward to having the tools and knowledge to custom build my own, but in the meantime I've been enjoying the feel and form factor of the RK series.

The one downside is I'm having trouble getting wireless (both dongle and Bluetooth) to work with Linux.

Any suggestions on a keyboard brand that is friendly to Linux? A little built-in control dial for volume is a plus. Thanks!

I wanted a dedicated keyboard to control my home assistant for lights and stuff. Inside the junk drawer I had enough extra switches and a spare RP Pico, so I printed this enclosure.

This time I kept it super simple, just soldered right to the switches, no lights, 3x4.

Now it's up on my desk, and I've got a few unused keys for expansion!

Hi everyone,

We’re excited to reveal a special collection for Jelly Key’s 10th anniversary. This mini group buy lasts just 48 hours, with delivery in 30 days, and each keycap is only $40. Grab yours before it’s gone!

https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/decade-of-artistry

• 6 Designs
• Prices start at $40
• Payment: PP/CC

• Free shipping on orders of 6+ keycaps.
• Each keycap comes in a handmade wooden box. We craft every keycap by hand using resin casting and layer-by-layer coloring – no 3D printing involved. The photos show actual prototypes we’ve made, not renders.
• We offer one-to-one replacement for any manufacturing defects. Feel free to contact us if you need help!

I’ve been eyeing the Cerakey Nada 65 Keyboard for a while now and I’m curious if anyone here has tried it. It looks great on paper, but I’m wondering if it actually lives up to the hype. 🤔

I've been into custom keyboard layouts for a couple years now, and from there it makes sense to try different shaped keyboards instead of just different key arrangements. I decided i want a Chouchou keyboard with Taipo and i have questions before i go buy a bunch of parts i don't know how to use.

dlip (who made Chouchou) recommends low profile choc switches and keycaps. I know what a switch and keycap are, and that low profile is just a shorter key than what's standard, but what does choc mean here? This is hard to even research without knowing what non-choc switches are called.

The thumb keys look like normal switches with slightly longer caps, and i'm guessing 1.5U means it's 1.5 units along two of its sides. Is that right?

Is there anything else i need to know about PCBs or QMK? Or about mechanical keyboards in general?

More pics: https://pixelfed.social/p/wjrii/838255973232132267

I messed up in a million ways, but I managed not to screw it up too badly to be happy with it. This was also my first build with QMK and then VIAL. Some lessons:

• ALPS stabilizers are a pain.
• Don't let sleepy English majors design PCBs after midnight. Seriously, the thing barely works for this layout, but should be slightly better for Cherry MX switches.
• One is strangely zen when one accidentally deletes all the PCB design files for such a flawed PCB. Still have the fabrication Gerber, but with half a dozen errors that's very near to useless.
• Don't be a coward with your woodworking. There is a bigger gap between case and keys than I'd like.
• On the other hand, don't be stupid. The pecan inlay on the back may be there to cover up where I sliced right into the dowels joining the frame together.

I picked up a Durgod Fusion Steam at a decent price, to use with my MiSTer. I like it so much that I've been using it with Linux too.

I swapped some keys round - the Super/Windows keys with Alt to get them in the proper places (this keyboard doesn't come with a RWindows or WinMenu key so I repurposed RCtrl); Ctrl to where Caps Lock is, and where it is supposed to be. Fn+Ctrl is now Caps Lock in case I need it.

I moved Home/End to Fn+PgUp and Fn+PgDn to free up a key (I rarely use Home/End anyway) which I mapped to Win+F12 (MiSTer's OSD on all cores).

I then wondered what I could do with the old LCtrl key. After some deliberation I decided a dedicated Compose key was best. This is where Compose was on some old keyboards (which also had Ctrl in the right place!)

I ordered some custom keycaps and made my Super/Win keys into Amiga keys. Didn't fancy trying to colour match the keys, so made Ctrl/Amiga/Amiga blue (Amiga owners will know why I decided those three keys should be the same colour as each other) and (MiSTer) Menu and Compose green.

Perfect Amiga/MiSTer/Linux keyboard!

Hey guys, in the last few days my current one has started having some ghosting / unresponsive key issues and I am looking for a replacement.

The current one is a logitech g910 with programmable keys, which sadly don't work under Linux (I bought the keyboard when I still used windows). Now I know most keyboards with programmable functionality require software on the computer to work, and windows software at that.

Can someone here make a recommendation? I need

• full Linux compatibility
• 3-8 programmable keys
• full layout with numpad
• media / volume controls would be nice to have
• (obviously) mechanical keys with good feedback, I mostly use it for gaming

Thank you in advance 🙂

E: thanks everyone for the useful responses, i landed on a keychron k3 (after some comparing i decided i could do without the numpad). Had to buy it from amazon sadly because their own store is like 3/4 sold out and didnt have the german layout i need in stock.

I am looking for an open hardware PCB Ready to send files for oshpark, seedstudio or jlcpcb like places

A PCB with the following features

wired of an MCU supported by mainline QMK/ZMK/VIA and or VIAL correctly wired for bluetooth/2.4G and wired battery powered USB-C port surface mount diode and individually addressable LEDs

Has anyone ever made such an open hardware PCB ?

Last month I purchased a keyboard, it is physically very nice and has all the features I listed above, except it runs it's own unmodifiable proprietary firmware, so the whole thing is garbage.

Pity because physically this keyboard is everything I wanted

Hi everyone. These unique keycaps come in two styles - 6 round Gaccha and 6 square Gaccha designs. What makes them special? Each one has a transparent window with tiny accessories inside that actually move around when you shake them. Every time you type, these little pieces dance and jingle, creating a fun, interactive experience that brings your keyboard to life.

Join groupbuy: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/gaccha-capsule-keepers

Here's what makes this deal even better: buy 3 keycaps and get a free Black Arcade Deck display stand. Order 6 or more and shipping's on us. Go all-out with the complete Gaccha collection and you'll score an exclusive Red Gaccha keycap that's not available anywhere else. Each keycap is handcrafted using traditional resin casting and hand-painted layer by layer - no 3D printing shortcuts here. They come packaged in beautiful handmade wooden boxes, and what you see in the photos are actual prototypes we created, not computer renderings.

• 12 Designs

• Prices start at $55

• Payment: PP/CC

Specs

• Artisan keycaps

• Art Toy X32 & X77

• Arcade Deck for Keycap Display

• Arcade Genesis Lab – Display Diorama

Open time

• Open time: 29/5/2025

• Close time: 5/6/2025.

Many years ago I got the KBD75v2 and I love that keyboard, it's still my main keyboard for my home office. I now need another keyboard and was shocked to find that KBDFans doesn't sell it or anything like it anymore. I also cannot seem to find a keyboard that is 75% and has the possibility of split-space and QMK/VIA. Is there one available out there? Closest I can find is some Keychron Alice boards but I would like a non-split board and just have the space split into multiple keys. I've seen on some sites that the Wobkey Rainy 75 has an add-on for split-space but I cannot find that add-on anywhere and from youtube videos it doesn't seem to be included in the box(?). I'm also totally fine with soldering and piecing together parts. I just can't seem to find anywhere to start with that. I feel like the custom scene has reduced and the prebuilts have gotten better but with less customizations like split-space.