Hi u/everyone . [mini GB] Yuletide Treasure artisan keycaps

https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/yuletide-treasure

• Keycap sizes: 1u
• 15 designs
• Price: $50-$55
• Payment: PP / CC

May your Christmas be adorned with meaningful treasures. We’re excited to present the Yuletide Collection, a limited mini group buy open for just 2 days, closing November 18th. Each keycap is a handcrafted token of wonder, celebrating the season’s timeless magic.

Orders of 6+ keycaps ship free, with delivery starting after 30 business days. Plus, we’ve prepared 3 special gifts: 2 exclusive display stands and 1 limited-edition keycap.

Don’t miss your chance to bring home a miniature winter wonderland.-

Hello! I just received my beautiful Neo60 Core. It's my first 60% keyboard so I hoped that the Fn-Key can compensate the "missing" keys. But I can't really find any documentation on how to use the Fn-Key on the Neo60 Core.

I was only able to use F1-F12 with the combination of Fn-(1-ß) but I really want to use and need the ArrowKeys. I tried Fn + WASD but because Fn+W sets the Neo60 Core to Bluetooth mode this wont work. Even Fn+IJKL wont work either. Does the Neo60 Core doesn't offer such functionality out of the box? Do I really have to use an external Software to make this possible?

Thank you!

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/38669987

I accidentally soldered a switch on crooked. I got the switch off the board but i'm having trouble cleaning out the holes so i can put a new switch in.

Can this switch footprint be saved after being clogged with solder and melted a little, or should i try to get the other switches off and start over on a new board?

And what's the best way to desolder these switches if i have to remove the rest?

The raffle form for this week is open now: https://www.jellykey.com/raffle

This Halloween, we’re dropping a raffle sale right on schedule. We’ve crafted 4 unique designs across 11 total variants for you to choose from. Each keycap is priced at $65—these are strictly limited editions with only 15 pieces per variant. Shipping is a flat $12 whether you win one keycap or multiple.

Fill out the entry form below. Tomorrow at 11 PM (GMT+7), we’ll randomly select winners and send invoices to the email addresses you provided if you win.

• Keycap Compatibility: MX stem & meticulously crafted with multiple layers

• Shipping Commences: Starting from 12/01/25 (one month after the raffle conclusion)

Rule:

• Only one entry.

• You will be banned if you don't pay the invoice when you win.

Raffle:

• This form will open in 24 hours (closed on 11/01/25 at 11 PM GMT+7).

• The invoice will start after the form has closed (30-90 mins).

Payment:

• We only accept PAYPAL with raffle sales.

• Payment will be open 24 hours before closing. Unpaid invoices will be cancelled & keycaps will be raffled again.

Is there an option in QK Config to latch a key? I have one of the original tri-mode QK75s and I love it, but it only works with QK Config as far as I know. I've been playing some games where you just have to hold forward (W) for a long time and it is hurting my wrist, so I would love to have it where Fn+W just holds the key until I press W again, ideally with or without Fn. I can't find anything in the software for that, though.

Join our Groupbuy: https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/retrotv-series-first-frame

• Keycap sizes: 1u
• 12 TV designs & 12 TV screens
• Art Toy keycaps x32 & x77
• Stand Boy & Spotlight Dock
• Payment: PP / CC
• Price at start: $55

Hi everyone. Every keycap comes with a complimentary sticker. Order 12 keycaps to unlock a special limited edition keycap as our gift to you. Plus, orders of 6 keycaps or more qualify for free shipping. Stand Boy & Spotlight Dock with integrated lighting are available exclusively during this group buy.

This group buy closes on November 4th, 2025—though we may close earlier than expected. Remember: we never restock or reopen sales for any design once it’s gone. Don’t miss out.

Has anyone made a half-decent Tux keycap to replace the ubiquitous Windows key with? I found this 3d-printable one but I can't say I'm crazy about its looks... I mean, look at this:

(To be clear, this is not my keyboard.)

Maybe the way to go is a generic penguin-themed keycap?

So, I don't really have a specific question, more so just looking for any general commentary on or critique of this particular keyboard.

Basically, my old kb broke, been thinking about getting a new one, and this just is the closest to perfect for what I want, that I can find.

Firstly, ability to split, got decent tenting too, at least thats my impression.

Good for ergonomics while sitting, but also I could just run it to / from a nearby couch or bed and be maximum lazy... also I'm kind of crippled and mostly bedridden with support pillows when I'm not doing PT.

But its 2.4/BT/Wired, so... basically pretty versatile within a given location, probably not optimal for frequent transport, but again, I'm currently crippled, so... thats not much of a concern for me at the moment.

I like the color scheme, I like the layout, macro keys, I like the backlighting but not obnoxious level of GAMER RGB.

But... I dunno, I feel like this is somehow too good to be true, there must be something I am overlooking... does anyone see anything amiss about this board, maybe its way too expensive compared to something similar, maybe Royal Kludge has some particular reliability problem I've not heard of?

I guess, beyond that, maybe... what do people think of split keyboards generally?

There do not seem to be too many pre-built, split mechanical boards, at least not around roughly $100.

Hi,

I've been dabbling in silversmithing lately, and I'm thinking I might want to try and create a keycap from sterling silver.

Does anyone have experience on what the max. reasonable weight is for a keycap on a Gateron Low Profile Brown switch, for it to still feel decent when typing? I'm not worried about it feeling different from other keys, it's only going to be one special key.

I know Keychron sells metal artisan keys for LSA profiles, which are specced at 3.8 grams, but currently I have no clue if I'd be within that using silver and it being manually sculpted instead of die-cast at industrial scale

Just got this puppy second-hand for a reasonable price. A Keychron V5 Max... I would've liked another brand, but these were just the only ones with VIA I could find second-hand nearby.

The plan is to slowly customize it with second-hand switches and keycaps, 'cuz I can't really justify buying new stuff... Financially and environmentally!

Also part of the plan is opening it up to add some foam and do a tape mod... Curious what that'll do. I already stuck some painter's tape on the inside of the space bar, backspace, backward slash and enter keys, which makes a big difference already!

...But man, it's hard to resist the temptation to order something new anyway. Also, does anyone have any tips for making the key with the Windows logo into a little Tux? I found this, but I don't think that would ever look actually pretty...

I think i'm about ready to get this custom board printed, but i thought i'd ask if anyone here is willing to have a look and see if i've made any big mistakes with it. The KiCad files are here on CryptPad, made with version 7 of KiCad.

I know there's no microcontroller. I'm planning to hand wire in a Raspberry Pi Pico that'll sit in the case so i don't have to make room for it on the PCB. That's what the connections at the top of the board and right of the middle pad are for. They're wired into the matrix already. The seven mounting holes around the edges are just screw holes, and the one on the left hand between some keys is for the stem of a trackpoint that'll also be hand wired under the PCB. The switches here are Choc V1, not MX.

Thanks for this and for all the help i've had with this project so far. I couldn't have done it without this community.

I first started on the "Overton130" design several years ago. At first, like most homebrew small-run designs of the time, it did a sandwich cse. I eventually added inserts to close the gaps on the case, but it still didn't feel commercial-grade.

JLCPCB, aside from making the PCBs, has a huge resin printer on offer and I tried a case inspired by the Focus FK-9000 (not shown), but I still wanted something that said "bought" rather than "built" so I spent a fair bit of time in FreeCAD riffing on the nicest industrial design on the 1980s.

Key specs: Box Pale Blues, NovelKeys stabs, G90 Galvanized Steel plate, 3mm thick aluninium sheet bottom. The PCB (4th revision) uses a CH32V305 MCU breakout (it theoretically supports a Teensy++ but that hasn't been tested) and custom firmware. Main caps are AFSA Chocolateur knockoff, top row is MA with home laser charring, and the left block is home-lasered XDA, in the weird dark-orange colour YMDK sells.

I'm making a custom keyboard with a Raspberry Pi Pico as the MCU, and i don't understand what all the different pins are for and how they should be wired up to my key matrix and trackpoint.

My current understanding is that GPIO are normal pins that can be wired to the rows and columns, but what of VBUS, VSYS, 3V3, and all the others that aren't just GPIO or GND? And how should the ground pins be used here?

The schematic currently doesn't include the trackpoint because i'm planning to hand wire it and the MCU to the PCB, so i can put them under the PCB in the case and i don't have to try to fit them onto the board. Is there a better way to connect these that won't require adding a bunch of space to the board to fit the MCU?

When I first brought it year ago as it the first Mechanical keyboard I own, I only just notice it's a US Layout when I tried to use it which I assume because I got it on Amazon UK, it would be in UK Layout. ~~Note to myself, do few minutes of research before buying it online again.~~

I saw on 8BitDo's subreddit of someone contracting customer service if they sell UK-layout keycaps which they said no. I did tried look one identical to it but it both different colour and also in US-Layout.

Before tells me "Just use US Layout", I tried it and still feels unnatural to me. I really don't want my keyboard picking up some dust but if there's isn't any keycap that both looks identical and in UK, I'm considering maybe getting Keychron Keyboard at some point.

Just found this design and I think it's totally awesome. The new super-small switch PG1316M is used to fit 3 rows into such a constrained space.

Wonder if you could even get away with 4 rows of this, especially to somewhat compensate for the lack of thumb keys? I'd personally be interested to try 4 rows even for a more conventional tabletop keyboard.

EDIT: I have accidentally erased the main URL when I tried to upload a picture. Apologies. (Didn't know Lemmy works this way). Here's the main URL for this thing: https://www.reddit.com/r/ErgoMobileComputers/comments/1npnj85/btyp_a_mini_pg1316m_switch_keyboard_for_use_on_a/

I was counting my boards a few weeks ago and realized I had enough to post one every week for the next year. I'm three weeks into this project, and recently discovered an app called Keebuilder. I've been using it to catalog and share my builds as I take images every week. Over the years I've built so many I've forgotten what I built them with, so am using Keebuilder to index that info as I look up my receipts. Soon enough I'll finally have a database of all of my builds, thanks to Keebuilder.

Hi everybody! I type a lot since i am a programmer and a student but i also play videogames (like minecraft and various indies) and since my setup is pratically just a laptop and a mouse it sometimes is just not very comfortable so i want to buy for my first time a keyboard

I was looking for a keyboard that is not smaller than a 75% and the XDA profile is my preferred, for switches...well i don't really know much but something not very noisy would be good

there are any mechanic keyboard under 25€? I am very low budget and i may even consider to buy from second hand markets and I can build it myself if that mean that i can save money;

thank you for using your time to answer!

While most people don't spend a lot of time thinking about the keys they tap all day, mechanical keyboard enthusiasts certainly do. As interest in DIY keyboards expands, there are plenty of things to obsess over, such as keycap sets, layout, knobs, and switches. But you have to get deep into the hobby before you realize there's something more important than all that: the stabilizers.

Even if you have the fanciest switches and a monolithic aluminum case, bad stabilizers can make a keyboard feel and sound like garbage. Luckily, there's a growing ecosystem of weirdly fancy stabilizers that can upgrade your typing experience, packing an impressive amount of innovation into a few tiny bits of plastic and metal.

ending:

Still, a good-quality set of stabilizers, properly installed and lubricated, is probably the best upgrade you can make to a mechanical keyboard in spite of tariffs. The duty paid on a $20–30 item won't break the bank, and it really will make your keyboard better.

I do really think the smaller keyboards are cool, and i like that they wouldn't run into my mouse as much. But all my life I've had a numpad. I tried a keyboard without a numpad and lasted about 5 minutes before raging. How did you guys get used to it? Maybe I just need to get better at "top row numbering".

Hi everyone [mini GB]

https://www.jellykey.com/artisan-keycaps/lunar-delicacies

This is a mini group buy open for only 48 hours. Shipping starts after 30 business days. We’ll try to ship earlier to customers in Asia so they can get their orders before the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Each keycap includes one 1u mooncake tray (holds one “mooncake”) like in the preview photos. We also have 2u, 3u, 4u, and 6u sizes. All sizes are $15 each. The keycap trays ship for free when purchased together with keycaps.

got his used low-profile keyboard with cherry mx red switches. apart from one broken key, everything works but - the thing reeks of ciggs. I've washed the keycaps and the case, but as you can see, the switches are caked with the gunk. any advice on what to do, clean (how?) or abandon, as replacing the keys is out of the question. thanks!

• just so you can type it again?

So I finally got these switches intalled in my Rainy75 that I posted about the other day (YushaKobo), and I haven't seena lot posted online about these yet, so I thought I'd add my 10p.

I chose them because I'm on team tactile, not linear, so I needed some tac's to go in the Rainy which only ships with linears. I tried all of the tactiles in the giant switch testers at YushaKobo and this was the one I liked the feel of the best. I'd never heard of them before, but feels best is what feels best, so it wasn't a hard decision.

I think it was the lightest of the tactiles in their testers, but I wouldn't call it light. More of a medium weight IMHO. I'm coming from 65g Zealios R1 and the actuation force is very similar to that. The bottom-out force is a bit lighter, as the Zealios have a cushiony spring that ramps up the resistance, whereas these kinda just collapse after the bump, in a really satisfying way.

The bump I would describe as a medium. Defo more than the "scratchy red" of the old MX Brown. Pretty similar again to the Zealios, but with less pre-travel. It actually kinda reminds me of the HHKB/Topre a little. The bump is right at the top, then smooth, then it collapses to bottom-out. I guess the bump is longer than with topre tho.

The sound, OMFG the sound! It's a LOT deeper than the stock HMX Violets on the Rainy. It sounds soooo much better. I might have a hard time persuading myself to rip out the case foam and add a tape mod to the pcb chasing even deeper sounds, because this already sounds amazing. This was one of the things that put me off getting a full alu board for a long time, so many recordings, and that one I tried at a meetup once upon a time, where they just go tink tink tink and people call that thocky for some reason? With the stock violets this was not thocky at all. Now it is, and I like it!

There's NO wobble. My old Zealio R1's are extremely wobbly so I wanted something that fixed that, but probably everything these days is fine. The stock violet switches also have basically no wobble, but the BigLucky's do indeed have slightly less.

So there it is. Basically a rave review, but I don't really have a lot of modern switches to compare to.