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submitted 2 weeks ago by Silfeed@fedia.io to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

https://imgur.com/a/oXQJArS I’m hoping you guys can help me figure this out. I have an ender 3 pro, running on marlin firmware. Every time I try to print something one of the corners will lift up like that and ruin the entire print. I installed a crtouch to help with leveling, installed upgraded metal bed wheels to help it not fall out of level. Even tried a glass bed with glue and it still does the same thing. I used a filament dryer and have a heat enclosure. I’m starting to run out of ideas on how to fix this. Any suggestions? The pic is how it starts and that was just a brim since I used to always use a raft and thought I should try that instead.

Edit/update: after spending the better part of a week just troubleshooting different suggestions I have found what I think was the main culprit. The filament I was using seems to be of really poor quality. I switched back to a glass bed with glue and could get the hatchbox yellow I had left over to stick really well after I dried it out, when I tried to dry out the black I was using and switch back to it, it immediately pulled away after the 2nd layer.

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[-] fahfahfahfah@lemmy.billiam.net 3 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

You can try turning up the bed temp, lowering the z-offset to get the nozzle closer on the first layer, or increasing the first layer flow in your slicer. For me the purple glue sticks on a glass bed worked, but sounds like that’s not working for you for whatever reason.

Another trick I’ve seen people use is adding some circles to hard corners like that in the model that you can cut off later.

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 1 points 2 weeks ago

I’ll need to figure out how to make the mouse ears that everyone suggests. I haven’t actually made my own models before and the brim is automatically made with the creality slicer. I tried cura as well but that was doing weird things with the print if I recall so I went back to the creality one. If I can’t figure it out on there, I’ll see if cura gives me more options for that. Thanks for the info

[-] DABDA@lemmy.dbzer0.com 1 points 2 weeks ago

There's also a few plugins for Cura with variations on the name TabAntiWarping. I've had https://github.com/5axes/TabAntiWarping installed forever but I'm not sure if I've ever actually used it in a print. I just took a quick look and there's a couple others listed in the marketplace now too.

[-] Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works 1 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

If PETg (which is where I've most commonly had warping), make sure Filament is very well dried. Try both raising or lowering bed temps and bigger brim.

Also, for funsies, try rotating print orientation 45 degrees if you can. Might shift stress away from corners to sides.

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 1 points 2 weeks ago

So I gave it another try with the black filament after doing some additional adjustments and was still getting the same issues. I then swapped to a brighter filament so that I could get a better picture and now it’s laying perfectly flat. I’ll let it continue printing to see if any other issues pop up, but it’s weird that one filament was lifting but an older spool works fine.

[-] neclimdul@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

Cleaning is a good suggestion. I'd start there.

Also, that kind of looks like the cheap black textured plates that come with some printers. I thought the people talking about pei sheets were over-hyping but honestly they are really much better. It's not a silver bullet but pla sticks soooo much better to them.

For pla it's overkill, but for tricky stuff build adhesive can help. I had good luck with vision miner. It's expensive but it's been buy once, cry once because it has lasted a really long time.

[-] dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

Given all you've tried I can only conjecture that this may be a print temperature issue, especially since you already tried adhesive. What material are you printing, and at what temperatures for nozzle and bed?

You may also find that your printer's sensors are not reporting temperature accurately. Mine sure isn't and never has, at least on the bed, and it consistently reads about 5 degrees high versus reality if you poke the surface with an external temperature probe. This isn't a big deal only so long as you know to compensate for it. The thermal conductivity of whatever your print bed material is may also force you to compensate, i.e. a glass plate will not perform the same as a steel one and may require a boost of a few degrees and/or allowing it to cook longer during the preheating phase before you start your print.

I print on a sheet of cheap Kapton tape with a later of even cheaper hairspray on it (Aqua Net, if you must know), "65" °C bed temp for PLA (60 in reality) with a first layer temp of 215 for regular PLA, and 210 for "rapid" PLA blends. My sharp corners stay put.

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 1 points 2 weeks ago

So I gave it another try with the black filament after doing some additional adjustments and was still getting the same issues. I then swapped to a brighter filament so that I could get a better picture and now it’s laying perfectly flat. I’ll let it continue printing to see if any other issues pop up, but it’s weird that one filament was lifting but an older spool works fine.

[-] HelloRoot@lemy.lol 1 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago)

Because nobody said it yet: wash your bed with warm water and soap to remove any residue (especially oily fingerprints)

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 0 points 2 weeks ago

I have washed it a couple times and was getting the same results. I’ll try again just in case.

[-] squaresinger@lemmy.world 1 points 2 weeks ago

Better solution than water and soap: Clean it using isopropyl alcohol on a clean rag (no paper tissues). Works much, much better.

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 1 points 2 weeks ago

The last time I cleaned it I used 99% isopropyl alcohol, hoping to get a good clean on it with no luck. I’ll try using a lower percent next to see if that changes anything

[-] thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org 1 points 2 weeks ago

get a box of the alcohol prep wipes, they wont leave residue and you can one and done them while taking away the almost invisible film that will build up after a few uses

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 2 points 2 weeks ago

I have a box already but never thought of trying those out. Thanks for the tip!

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 0 points 2 weeks ago
[-] thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org 0 points 2 weeks ago
[-] onslaught545@lemmy.zip 0 points 2 weeks ago

That is the brim, according to OP.

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 0 points 2 weeks ago

Yeah, that was about 5 minutes into just printing a brim.

[-] thisbenzingring@lemmy.sdf.org 1 points 2 weeks ago

did you get it figured out yet? Adhesion is bad there, maybe you can move it to a different place in on the bed in the slicer? did you try giving your bed a good dish soap wash and then wipe it with alcohol?

or add a 10 level skirt to trap more heat?

I have heard of people using painting tape to stick it to the bed when doing long prints that start coming up like that but that is lame

if thats an endor, do you have a glass sheet you can try printing on?

[-] Silfeed@fedia.io 2 points 2 weeks ago

I’m working on it right now to try out some of the suggestions people have given me. I’m waiting on a thermometer to come in so I can make sure my printer is giving accurate temps. I’ve had similar issues with the glass as I am with the magnetic, but if I can’t get my current test to work I might try again on glass. Right now I figured out how to get mouse ears on the corners so I’m giving that a shot. I have cleaned it a few times already but maybe I used too high of a percent on the ipa so I’ll try again with a lower percent.

this post was submitted on 19 Jul 2025
5 points (85.7% liked)

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