Make sure your tires are in order too; they're just as important for stopping distance, if not more important than good brakes.
Yep, tires are all in order. Just looking for better temperature resistance in the brakes.
I always just go with Bosch ceramic pads and whatever rotors off of Rock Auto. Flush the fluid.
I put the Powerstop Z23 "Sport" carbon-ceramic brake pads on my Crosstrek some years ago and they've been bomber so far. Rockauto also lists them for your car, but plug in all of your make/model/options/etc. yourself rather than purchasing from that link because I don't know if there are any trim level variations we need to worry about. I got slotted rotors at around the same time, but I don't recall from what brand. They're out there, regardless.
For brake fluid, DOT 5.1 will have the highest boiling point. I don't have a brand preference, I just use whatever the Autozone across the street sells me, which is I think Prestone. Edit: My neighbor races his N series Hyundai and swears by Castrol SRF. He hasn't binned it yet, so I must imagine it works.
Do not use DOT 5, it has to be 5.1, since 5 is silicone rather than glycol based not chemically compatible with the DOT 3/4 that your car came filled with. Do yourself a favor while you're at it and pick up one of those brake fluid pressure bleeders. I have this one, and the reservoir caps on most Asian cars seem to be the same so this will probably work for yours without having to buy a different cap.
Punters on the internet may tell you that since everything is a tradeoff, DOT 5.1 will require flushing more often than 4 or 3. If you decide this is so, it ought to be a doddle for you with your shiny new pressure bleeder. A mere 30 minute job.
If your brakes have blown and not recovered after apparently boiling but then cooling off, you may also need to look into replacing one or all of your calipers, or the flex lines going to them.
Slotted or drilled rotors won't do anything for fade. The only thing you can do short of a big brake kit is upgrade your pads, and ideally your brake fluid with them too.
Why don't you want drilled rotors?
Edit: I'm not sure what the best answer is for you I would go post on the forum to get information who know your car in and out and may have even done those modifications themselves already
Drilled rotors crack when pushed and don't offer much for cooling gains.
I can be hard enough on the brakes
Why not put it into a lower gear whether it’s sport mode or just manually shifting into one? Mountains in my part of the world are rather hard on brakes too if you’re just riding around in a high gear.
I use low gears. The issue is it's also the fun road with corners and such.
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