There does appear to be some level of curve within your bed mesh, but the skew of the bed definitely shows that the bed is not level across the X axis. If you have manual bed leveling, work on the adjustment across the X axis before taking new mesh samples. Mesh compensation will definitely do a decent job compensating for a skew even as large as four layers worth, but the dimensional accuracy of the bottom of your parts will take a good hit printing like that.
Make sure the edge of your bed isn't resting on something it ought not to be and/or doesn't have any crap stuck to the underside of it. My Qidi has two plastic tabs sticking up at the rear which are supposed to be end stops to assist you in lining up the magnetic plate back onto its base, but if you're not careful you can wind up with the back edge of the base siting on top of them which has the net effect of making the build surface the equivalent of about a 1:64 scale skateboard quarter pipe. This has predictable results if you try to print anything on the back third of it or so.
I have a Concrete slab and a rubber paver underneath. I removed them, cleaned them, put the printer back on, and reran self check. Here's the mesh now. Still a bend, but now everything is on or above the flat plane.
In addition to what others have said, it can also indicate different issues on different printers. Is it a core-xy or bedslinger?
If it's not just an issue with a dished bed, there could be twist along your x-axis which are moving the nozzle (or probe) slightly further from the bed in the middle. Could be wire/bowden routing putting a slight strain on the toolhead.
Do the mesh results look roughly the same when cold versus, say, a 30 minute heat soak?
It's an Ender 3 v3 CoreXZ. The filament sensor is on the right side. It is possible that when it reaches the right most side, it 'bends' the pfte/cables to its maximum and they put a strain? If so, how do I remedy it?
What I have used as a rule of thumb is to keep the difference below .2, .6 is a huge difference in my mind and is making your printer work much harder to compensate for the large difference.
Klipper with proper mesh and a reliable Probe on a fixed bed can handle 1mm range without any issues at all.
how would I do that?
either have something like KAMP handle your meshing adaptively before every print (takes more time every print, will work even with different bed);
or by having a fixed bed without any adjustable screws/etc., creating a proper bed_mesh (eg bicubic with an amount of probe_count on the higher side) and loading it in your print_start before every print. (will always work aslong as the bed/setup stays the same. Gotta remesh when you change beds)
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
Do not create links to reddit
If you see an issue please flag it
No guns
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
