HDCP is so fucking dumb, I couldn't play Switch on my old projector because of it and it's absolutely useless in stopping anything from being pirated.
I get and like HDCP. Mostly because of how easy it can be to bypass. I'd rather have a universal "we tried" standard, than an honest attempt to stop this. With today's tech and online focused DRM, HDCP could be a lot worse, and I am happy where it is right now.
Like Adobe Digital Editions or Kindle for eBook DRM.
That's the thing though: Ultimately, there is no stopping it with restrictive technology.
The only real way to stop piracy is to offer a good service for a good price.
Biggest evidence of that is Epic will give away games for free, but there will be people who prefer to pay for the Steam version over the free version.
That's the biggest evidence that piracy is a problem of distribution and goes against the idea that those who pirates are against paying for a product.
Yup, outside of legacy PC titles which will never get a re-release, a 1-2 combo shot of GOG and Steam, I don't pirate games. I even took the time to find way to backup my games so I can get legal ROMs too.
Especially with music and video. At some point it has to enter your eyes/ears, and even if HDCP wasn't shit, you could always just record what was on your screen or coming out of your speakers.
Ah yes, the classic analog hole. Next thing you know, "premium" content will need Premium Certified custom eyes and ears, only for the small installation fee of $59.99/month.
Most anti-piracy measures are useless at stopping piracy.
I fly a giant fucking pirate flag with skull and crossbones and no one ever stops me. All they do is say "Are you a pirate?" or "Say Jack Sparrow". Tcchh bitch please, I'll torrent your mom's prom night.
I use an Dell docking station with my laptop. Any webpage with Spotify embed turns off my external displays because somewhere along the line the video signal loses the DRM certification. It's infuriating.
I have the exact same splitter. Have been using it for Ambilight for the last, maybe, 5 years. It quit on me a couple of months ago.
Here's to it 🍻
I used to work as AV technician in a big corporation and had one of those that always saved my ass everytime someone with a MacBook wanted to do a presentation.
Yup, same. For the unaware: Macs have always-on HDCP, and it doesn’t always work as intended.
Lots of times, I’m trying to run a projector with a feed from the presenter’s laptop. Laptop is on stage, projector is in the tech booth. And the line in between the stage and the booth will complete the video signal, but not the HDCP handshake. So Windows machines will work fine, but Macs will just outright refuse to send anything.
So yes, I keep an HDCP stripper handy, because whenever a client pulls a MacBook out I know I’m going to need it.
I get why hdcp exists, but why the fuck would apple enable it permanently, for everything? They afraid of people pirating their own desktop or something?
Because it accelerates the user experience when transitioning from non-hdcp to hdcp-protected content on their display(s). There's no need for re-negotiation of the display protocol causing some minor flickering during the transition.
But that only matters if you're presenting mixed content.
Yeah.
Pour one out for all the little unsung heroes that just get shit done for years. Looking at you cheap HDMI switcher on my desk.
07
Open it up and replace any electrolytic capacitors.
This is pedantic, but there are indeed capacitors there. They're all surface mount components, so they don't look like the caps that people typically talk about replacing, and they likely aren't what caused it to fail. Anything labeled on the board with a C## is likely a SMD capacitor.
I presumed so, but when I hear someone asking, I think of the old caps in old 90s PSU and Motherboards that are likely to go boom. I've never heard of these surface mount caps blowing though.
I see corrosion/deposits by those two leds and the hdmi.. rinse it with vinegar, then DI water, then 90% alcohol. See if that doesn't bring it back to life once it's fully dry. You also might have to reflow the solder though.
I have another in the setup thats working, but I'll probably hold onto it though if I can fix it as easily as you say
This.
I would absolutely try cleaning the board.
I would also spend $8-20 for a new one before I tried to DIY solder reflow various SMD caps.
Provided they don't explode first, ceramic capacitors tend to fail short circuit. If you have a multimeter, do continuity checks across all of them. In-circuit capacitance testing is very inaccurate, so that specific test is almost always moot. Continuity testing may help.
Also, depending on the speed of the multimeter and the charge of the capacitor, it may briefly give you a tone and/or register as a short circuit. Capacitors can register as a short circuit very briefly until they get a slight charge.
The diode at the top right is another easy thing to check. (D12 // SS34) if it's failed short, it will cause issues for you as well.
I am not sure what the component is that is under the heatsink by the USB connector. Sometimes, you may have voltage regulators stepping down the USB 5V to 3.3V. Those are easy to replace as well. However, if it is a USB controller of some kind, you would have to reference the datasheet and test it somehow.
Those are some simple checks you can do, anyway.
Bit of a tangent but: How dangerous is ripping and distributing web content these days? Like how prevalent is watermarking or other methods that could identify the account the recording originated from?
Not sure about others, but I don't distribute the content I record or backup, outside of an offsite backup. For me my biggest concern is getting a clean copy for myself, and with certain fruity tablets and a mirrored screen it's good source to record from for my needs.
You need to make the "you were the best" comic meme with this pasted in
No way to buy another? What's the part number? I'll help look.
I already have one, not to worry. Plus they are easy to find on Amazon or eBay.
I have had so many devices that went on long past their service life. Imma pour one out with you my friend.
Any chance you remember the brand or manufacturer so that I might look for one, for myself?
No name brand, if you find one that looks like it, it'll work. Typical search terms are "hdmi splitter 1 in 2 out", any with EDI switches are busts, like the one from UGREEN.
EDIT Also avoid any with buttons, this is a HDMI duplicator, as in 1 signal goes in, that signal get duplicated and sent out both ports. The ones with buttons switches inputs, so 1 HDMI in 1 HDMI out, the button just chooses which HDMI is being used. Great for monitors with only 1 HDMI input.
This article
https://www.howtogeek.com/208917/htg-explains-how-hdcp-breaks-your-hdtv-and-how-to-fix-it/
Links to this splitter to strip HDCP
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