Thanks

Thanks mate, did make a mistake...

Might post later about my A1 as I have a question that will fit here.

Curious, might have same machine but do consume a bit more, do you have one SSD + one nvme?

Not OP but have a question if you don't mind as I just swapped to Klipper and everything isn't clear yet.

When you say "due to lack of power..." isn't klipper doing all the work meaning that board don't need to process anything and is basically in a "reader" state?

Exactly, neither fit right for an AI

Can't recall which video (maybe "year of the voice chapter 5") but devs talked about it on official youtube Channel

How did you manage to get an ender 3 10 years ago while they were launch around 2018 😂. Wild guess is that you didn't mount it with care, which often end up with countless issues and blaming printer part is easy. If it was such a bad printer, you would not encounter printers farm using it.

It was definitely not a plug and play printer (they were not any at that time), but you could/can achieve same quality print as a thousand €/$ printer, the worst thing on it was his plastic extruder (10€ and 10 minutes to replace it), and the best thing on it is that you can customise it to your wish unlike any other printer and this was due to the vast amount of people who loved it. I still have an old 3 pro and it is rock solid, I sometimes don't use it for a whole year but each time I plug it back, i only clean and level the bed and it is good to go. (as I have a cr6-se which is also awesome by the way)

That being said, I can't tell how the most recent ender 3 versions does as I have only tried ender 3, 3 pro and 3V2.

Just use generic thermostat https://www.home-assistant.io/integrations/generic_thermostat/

Professional printing services are usually expensive, might be better to buy a second hand printer if you already plan to get one. Don't know the market in Japan but I guess they will charge you much more than 50€ and you can get a second hand printer which originally cost 400€ for maybe 150-200€.

Unlike a 1000€ printer, you will have a learning curve but you can get as good looking print as a 1000€ printer. Main difference is plug and play (yet still have to learn slicer settings and how each settings interact with each others) and printing speed.

Also, while you may choose from printing services what material to use, I ain't sure you can tell them what settings to use. As they are a printing services, you shall only tell them what those stl are used for and they should adapt according to their knowledge because they are much more than filling to take into account like walls, infill type, layer thickness, printing speed, print orientation...

Pla should be fine except maybe for the part that goes around the cylinder (depending force that is applied to it and thickness of part). In this case, petg or abs might be better

Instead of printing services, another possibility is to check the different fab lab in Tokyo, contact them and see what they offer.

I cannot see images ("these"), but if you are talking about some wheels, yes they should not be too tight neither too loose. Once tightened you should be able to turn them with your fingers without raising gantry but you should also feel friction.

i'm pretty sure i have the P version, and i did flash latest firmware for P version, i did a complete Z2M setup as i also swapped my raspberry for a mini pc at the same time but i haven't tried with an usb extender, will try that in a few hours and will update my comment. Is there a way to check visually if i have the P version ? Thanks for your answer

Edit: can confirm i have P version, model: ZBDongle-P Edit2: just tried to pair them again with an usb extender but still same

Thanks for the head up