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submitted 2 days ago by over_clox@lemmy.world to c/bicycles@lemmy.ca

Some bicycles get rode into or through lots of deep water, other bicycles often get left out in the rain and foggy weather.

Any which way, bicycles can most definitely rust from the inside out, so are there any recommended ways to protect against the elements?

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[-] j4k3@lemmy.world 6 points 2 days ago

There have been products that you can apply to the inside. I don't recall by name, but I think they are related to the rust converters common to auto restoration type stuff. The real issue here is that you are unable to prep and clean the surface and there was likely lots of contamination in the fabrication of the frame simply from handling the tubes. This contamination was then cooked by welding/brazing for steel. For internal tube coatings, it is probably only mildly effective for the old highest end cromoly tubes like the Reynolds triple butted stuff. Protecting the center of that kind of tube is important because they are so thin.

In reality most steel bikes will fail with fatigue cracks around the bottom bracket. Those are usually fatal. Occasionally the seat stays will fail at the seat tube, or stays around the dropouts, but those are usually from latent manufacturing defects. Anything around the head tube is usually indicative of a crash or dropping of some sort, and the drive side chain stay and seat stay are very subjective to the types of damage as these are often damaged by a badly setup rear derailleur (not applicable here). This is how I asses all damaged frames at a glance and know if I should warranty something in a shop. I'm mostly from the post steel era in bike shops, but still know the basics. I'm also assuming that Mongoose was all steel.

If it was aluminum and you have cracks, that is game over without exception. Aluminum is a different set of issues entirely, but you are unlikely to ask about corrosion with aluminum.

Post some closeup pics of the damage some time and I'll tell you what I see. I used to have a structural steel welding cert, owned a body shop twice, and spent years as a Buyer for a chain of high end bike shops. I might be able to tell ya a thing or two if I see the issue.

[-] over_clox@lemmy.world 4 points 2 days ago

Bleh, not much point anymore, there's not a lot that can be done anymore on my old bike. I was more or less asking for future knowledge and to bring the discussion to the bicycling community.

The additional problem with my old bike is the type of metal it's made from. It's 4130 chromoly aircraft steel, and although the steel is rather light and strong compared to typical bicycle steels, 4130 also has one serious drawback, which is that the heat from welding causes the metal to lose temper around the areas welded.

I already have a good idea what all would need to be done to try getting the frame more or less fixed, but it would still end up being a compromise of sorts. Not like old Silver's frame is ever gonna be anywhere near as valuable as other SuperGoose frames in good condition though.

I'd basically have to have a handful of custom reinforcement brackets to have welded in key stress spots, plus deal with the bottom of the seatpost tube similarly.

Also, it would be neat if I could get a template for the bottom 'spider' bracket from the 1979 model that they dropped on the 1981 model.

I've already talked with a very skilled welding shop that I already fully trust with my frame, they want like $70 an hour, not counting materials and parts.

Plus I gotta figure out a way to remove my left rear peg, it's totally stuck on there because the threads on the back axle were partly mangled when I put the pegs on, and now I can't even remove the back rim because of the damn stuck peg, not even with a pipe wrench.. ๐Ÿ˜ž

[-] j4k3@lemmy.world 2 points 2 days ago

Triflow works okay. When I worked in a machine shop, we used an acetylene torch and a rosebud tip to heat old bolts in engine blocks to a light cherry red. Then you dab on some paraffin wax. The wax will liquefy and quench the heat while filling the void from dissimilar heating. You will harden the fastener with the quenching and you need a place to target the fastener directly. However, this technique works so well that it is common to go from a rusty blob that looks like a parasitic ferric lifeform has merged with the host to something that can be unscrewed by hand after it has cooled. You just risk damaging finishes with this one.

Using a combination of triflow, hot/cold cycling, and janky leverage, are the ways it is done in a bike shop. GL

this post was submitted on 05 Feb 2025
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