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Building Celestial: A GTK Theme Journey
(thoughts.greyh.at)
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Community icon by Alpár-Etele Méder, licensed under CC BY 3.0
Writing a custom GTK3 theme for my own use a couple of years back was an extremely painful process. There's no list anywhere of the possible themable element types (I had to go through the actual source code to compile one) or the possible nonstandard options (never did manage to compile that list). I haven't had to look at GTK4 yet, but I doubt it's any better.
(As for how people use dark themes: put borders on things if you need to, and/or use hover options to distinguish what the active element is.)