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I'd be surprised if it was too cold, but I've heard stranger. This is PETG at 250. I've actually pulled the nozzle and Bowden tube and pushed a very small Allen key through, so it shouldn't be clogged.
Z height is calibrated, and I've calibrated the e-steps for the z axis. I've tried disabling the fade height to see if that was doing something but it didn't seem to make a difference.
I ran through calibrating the extrusion e-steps. It's feeding 100mm when I tell it to do so. I haven't messed with the extrusion multiplier, do you have any information about that?
This is quite toasty, at least for the PETG I print. I'm usually at around 240 for my first layer and 230 or 235 for all subsequent layers.
Have you run a temp tower?
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extrusion_multiplier.html for more info. In a nutshell, you lower it for oozie filament and increase it for more viscous filament. For PETG I lower it some, but the exact amount varies by filament brand and color.
That said, I don't think this is your issue.
I haven't run a temp tower. I'm not fully convinced that it won't damage itself so I've been trying to think through it before trying another print.
If you are suffering a clog and/or under extrusion issue the worst I've ever seen happen on my printers is the extruder clicking because the e-stepper is trying to step, but can't. It might not be a bad idea to go over all the connectors in that path. When I finished building my Voron one of the factory terminals in the LDO stepper's connector had a terminal that was backed out, causing weird extrusion issues.
The print before this one, the blobbing/shreds were tall enough that one grabbed the BLTouch probe and bent it a little. I was pretty mad about that tbh.
I'll double check my connectors. That's a solid shout actually.
You only calibrate E, calculate for XYZ.
Calculate the rotation distance for the Z, if it doesn't move the correct distance when asked you have a broken part.