38
Newbie printer suggestions.
(lemmy.world)
you are viewing a single comment's thread
view the rest of the comments
view the rest of the comments
this post was submitted on 16 Jun 2024
38 points (95.2% liked)
3DPrinting
15505 readers
123 users here now
3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
The r/functionalprint community is now located at: !functionalprint@kbin.social or !functionalprint@fedia.io
There are CAD communities available at: !cad@lemmy.world or !freecad@lemmy.ml
Rules
-
No bigotry - including racism, sexism, ableism, homophobia, transphobia, or xenophobia. Code of Conduct.
-
Be respectful, especially when disagreeing. Everyone should feel welcome here.
-
No porn (NSFW prints are acceptable but must be marked NSFW)
-
No Ads / Spamming / Guerrilla Marketing
-
Do not create links to reddit
-
If you see an issue please flag it
-
No guns
-
No injury gore posts
If you need an easy way to host pictures, https://catbox.moe may be an option. Be ethical about what you post and donate if you are able or use this a lot. It is just an individual hosting content, not a company. The image embedding syntax for Lemmy is 
Moderation policy: Light, mostly invisible
founded 1 year ago
MODERATORS
My vote is for Bambu printers. I started with a super cheap Ender 3 V2 in 2020 and recently we got a Bambu X1 at work and it's so much easier, faster, and better. No more hours of troubleshooting issues, it just calibrates itself and goes.
The P1P is cheaper and might be a good option to look at. These printers are highly recommended on the reddit community too.
https://store.bambulab.com/collections/3d-printer
I like the look of the A1 and the P1P. They claim to run right out of the box, is that not common for a 3D printer?
Not uncommon but lots of printers on the market (especially hobbyist ones) are kits that you need to assemble. Bambu printers are pretty much remove the printer from the box, remove some brackets, tape and protective packaging before installing the build plate and spool holder and turning it on.
I'd recommend going for the P1S if you can swing it over the P1P for the enclosure.
Most will work right out of the box (after assembly) but the cheaper printers like the Ender will require periodic tinkering and upgrades to keep it working and make it perform better. I just retired my Artillery Sidewinder X2 (which is similar to the Ender CR10) for the Bambu X1C and don't regret it one bit. Prints just work all the time now and I haven't had to tinker with anything. My X2 has been upgraded quite a bit and yet still frequently gave me (solvable) issues that would be so frustrating when I just wanted to get something printed out.
I would also recommend the A1 mini if you're not looking to tinker and can deal with the bed size. Bambu Labs has done a great job on their lineup, MakerWorld, and by offering filament as well. They've really simplified the whole process.
I second Bambu printers. My P1S was as simple as taking it out of the box, pulling out the included accessories, take out three screws that keep the bed from moving during shipping, plug in cord. During setup it will run a self-calibration routine and you're all set. I thought I liked tinkering with my Ender 3v2, but when I needed to print, a failure would cost me time, effort and money. Stick with the better printers if you can afford it.
The P1S/P1P would definitely be worth it over the A1 mini as the CoreXY construction is a complete game changer. I don't think I'll ever buy another bed slinger printer. The whole design just doesn't make sense outside of being economical, which was fantastic 5+ years ago in order to get everyone into the hobby, but is really limiting now.
Bambu has really changed the landscape and elevated the hobby as a whole, which will be awesome for everyone once some competitors start trying to copy what they've done.
Totally agree on the core xy printers, I think OP was trying to keep cost under $500, so that would limit to P1P, but still a great printer, you can add the enclosure kit later if you want. I'm interested in the Sovol SV08, basically a Voron clone for $579 USD. I just don't want to be the 1st on to try it 🤣
There's a rabbit hole of things that can go wrong and things that need to be calibrated and upgraded. I had to assemble the Ender 3 and ensure that everything was perfectly straight, level, and 90 degrees. Calibrate the z-offset so it knows where the nozzle is.
I added an auto bed leveling sensor to my Ender 3, and that required custom firmware, and I replaced the bed springs because it wasn't staying level.
I calibrated the e-steps because it wasn't extruding consistently, then ended up replacing the extruder because it was cheap and unreliable.
Humidity was ruining my filament on the spools and making it brittle and snapping so I built a dry box that could feed the printer, similar to the clear boxes on some Bambu models.
The Bambu really was as simple as unboxing and turning it on. It comes pre-assembled and includes a lot more sensors that are able to keep it working smoothly.
The P1P, on the sales page, lists the hot end as an accessory? Is that the nozzle where the plastic comes out and is that usually sold separately?
Yes the hotend heats up and has molten plastic inside it and it gets pushed out the nozzle. I'm honestly not sure why they offer all those different versions as accessories. It includes a hotend and 0.4mm nozzle.
If you have a catastrophic issue it's possible for the hotend to be clogged completely, but that's never happened to me. It comes with a declogging tool which is just a long pokey wire to push up through the nozzle while it's hot to clear it.
The nozzle itself can unscrew from the hot end and be replaced because it wears out over time from filament chipping away at it.
Also, you might want different nozzle diameters depending on what you're printing. You can just buy spare nozzles without an entire hotend.
It comes with 0.4mm and they offer a range from like 0.2-1.0mm. The smaller nozzles print slower and more detailed while the larger nozzles are faster with lower resolution.