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Newbie printer suggestions.
(lemmy.world)
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this post was submitted on 16 Jun 2024
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There's a rabbit hole of things that can go wrong and things that need to be calibrated and upgraded. I had to assemble the Ender 3 and ensure that everything was perfectly straight, level, and 90 degrees. Calibrate the z-offset so it knows where the nozzle is.
I added an auto bed leveling sensor to my Ender 3, and that required custom firmware, and I replaced the bed springs because it wasn't staying level.
I calibrated the e-steps because it wasn't extruding consistently, then ended up replacing the extruder because it was cheap and unreliable.
Humidity was ruining my filament on the spools and making it brittle and snapping so I built a dry box that could feed the printer, similar to the clear boxes on some Bambu models.
The Bambu really was as simple as unboxing and turning it on. It comes pre-assembled and includes a lot more sensors that are able to keep it working smoothly.
The P1P, on the sales page, lists the hot end as an accessory? Is that the nozzle where the plastic comes out and is that usually sold separately?
Yes the hotend heats up and has molten plastic inside it and it gets pushed out the nozzle. I'm honestly not sure why they offer all those different versions as accessories. It includes a hotend and 0.4mm nozzle.
If you have a catastrophic issue it's possible for the hotend to be clogged completely, but that's never happened to me. It comes with a declogging tool which is just a long pokey wire to push up through the nozzle while it's hot to clear it.
The nozzle itself can unscrew from the hot end and be replaced because it wears out over time from filament chipping away at it.
Also, you might want different nozzle diameters depending on what you're printing. You can just buy spare nozzles without an entire hotend.
It comes with 0.4mm and they offer a range from like 0.2-1.0mm. The smaller nozzles print slower and more detailed while the larger nozzles are faster with lower resolution.