I'm printing some Gridfinity bins for some drawers, and one of them needs to be quite tall to fulfill its purpose (18u, ~130mm). I took a shortcut and generated one from this generator using the default wall thickness and printed using Prusament PLA. This resulted in the walls falling in on itself, and my second failed print.

In hindsight, considering the wall thickness of 0.95 mm, this seems pretty obvious to me now. I want to give it a second go, but beef up the wall thickness and make sure there's some proper infill between the outer walls to keep it stiff.

At the same time I don't want to waste too much filament, so I want to hit a sweet spot of sufficiently thin walls and sufficiently low infill percentage, while avoiding another failed print.

Anyone have good experience with these kinds of prints that could give some input on a rough estimate for what I should aim for here?

I am using Adaptive Cubic infill by the way, but for no other reason than that has become my default infill pattern after some previous suggestions made here.

I work in a corporation with an IT-department that is all in on whatever Microsoft is offering. My team has for some time gotten more and more autonomy in tooling as IT is overloaded and forced to relinquish some control, but we still rely on them for supplying compliant machines that have access to our resources.

I requested a Linux machine just over 5 months ago, and I finally got it this week. It is running Ubuntu with GNOME, not my first choice, but the only thing that is Microsoft Intune compliant as far as I know.

So far it is such a relief. A better specced machine with less bloat running on it. It should be far between any OOM-issue I get now... Slightly annoying having to use Edge for any service requiring corporate SSO, but I'll swallow that pill...

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/36080579

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

I got a Prusa CORE One earlier this year, and so far I've been very happy. I have not ventured outside of the default settings though, and I use their own filament (only PLA). This has worked perfectly fine so far, but now I ran into an issue, and I figure it's time to come out of the "default settings"-bubble and learn some more about this stuff.

I am trying to print a Gridfinity holder for a rolling pin, so I tried to cut out a appropriately sized cylinder in a template with a boolean operator in Blender. When the print got to the concave portion, the print started to fail - uncertain how to best explain it, but the overhangs over the infill did not properly bridge and the filament started to warp so that the print head would hit it on the next pass (and make some nasty scratching sounds). I stopped the print when I noticed this. See an image here:

I am uncertain whether this is due to the model being poorly optimized for 3D-printing, if the printer settings for the filament were off or if I could've tweaked the slicing settings to achieve a better result.

Is it obvious, looking at the image, what the primary reason for this failure is?

Note: I've ended up printing this again already with a regular rectangular cutout instead of a cylindrical one, so I am just trying to learn more about what made this fail to learn more.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.ml/post/35272958

I am looking into getting a BOSS RC-5 looping pedal for my guitar, and I am curious if anyone has any experience with using it with Linux?

It makes use of this BOSS Tone Studio to allow adding additional backing tracks, but it is only officially supported for Windows and macOS. I could not find many examples of people using it on Linux, but for the most part any discussion I could find was in the context of their amplifiers.

I wonder if it should be straightforward to run it through Wine? As far as I can tell, you only need to set it up as a storage medium and connect it to your machine, although you can't just drag the files directly onto it.

It is not a deal breaker for me if I can't get it working, but it would certainly be a benefit if I could.

Recently at work I've been thrown into running some Python scripts in a Docker container (all previous Docker-experience is limited to pulling images from container registries to host some stuff at home). It's a fairly simple script, but I want to do two things simultaneously that I have so far been unable to accomplish: redirecting some prints to a file while also allowing the script to run a cleanup process when it gets a SIGTERM. I'm posting this here because I think this is mainly signal handling thing in Linux, but maybe it's more Docker specific (or even Docker Swarm)?

I'm not on my work computer now, but the entrypoint in the Dockerfile is basically something like this:

ENTRYPOINT ['/bin/bash', '-c', 'python', 'my_script.py', '|', 'tee', 'some_file.txt']

Once I started piping, the signal handling in my script stopped working when the containers were shut down. If I understood it correctly it's because tee becomes the main process (or at least the main child of the main process which is bash?) and Python is deferred to the background and thus never gets the signal to terminate gracefully. But surely there must be some elegant way to make sure it also gets it?

And yes, I understand I can rewrite my script to handle this directly, and that is my plan for work tomorrow, but I want to understand this better to broaden my Linux-knowledge. But my head was spinning after reading up on this (I got lost at trap), and I was hoping someone here had a succinct explanation on what is going on under the hood here?

Sad news - I have been very happy with CalyxOS, and not sure if I would want to continue using it without security updates or move to another ROM on my Fairphone 4. It seems perhaps that I would anyway need to reflash when they get to the point of resuming updates? Anyone get a clearer reading on that than me?

I have been contemplating trying out Ubuntu Touch which has according to their site 100% compatability with Fairphone 4 now, but there are some functionality that I think would struggle without, and if I can't get it working as I want, I wouldn't be able to reflash CalyxOS now. Getting a new phone to install GrapheneOS is not an option for me.

What are other people here using CalyxOS going to do to maintain a modicum of privacy on their mobile devices?

I am one of those guilty of always intending to donate, but never really getting to it. But now I sat down and took the time to donate to some of the projects that provide great value for me, and also listed the ones I did not donate to now for future donations. I also set up an overview to track where I donate to, so that I make sure to spread the donations well over time.

Just a friendly reminder to consider donating to the projects that provide value to you if you have the means!

As we all know, privacy starts with security, which leads many people in this community to seek out secure services / software, some relentlessly so.

Then life happens, and suddenly you find yourself naked in a back alley in Hanoi (or if you already live in the region, you might instead find yourself naked in Santiago de Chile), stripped of all belongings and at best some vague recollection of an unusually good night. What is your strategy to regain access to what you need to get back home?

An no, the staff at the hotel does not recognize you.

I am in the process of migrating my Nextcloud instance from one server to another. I copied the Borg archive to one mountpoint, /mnt/ncbackup and intend to keep my data in /mnt/ncdata.

I couldn't really find out what to mount the backup directory to, so I just fired it up as documented in the documentation, and I was able to retrieve my backups from the non-mounted directory.

So this reveals a fundamental flaw in my understanding of how Docker works - I had assumed the container only had access to whatever was explicitly mounted. But I guess I am wrong?

This is the command I run:

sudo docker run \
--init \
--sig-proxy=false \
--name nextcloud-aio-mastercontainer \
--restart always \
--publish 8080:8080 \
--env APACHE_PORT=11000 \
--env APACHE_IP_BINDING=0.0.0.0 \
--env APACHE_ADDITIONAL_NETWORK="" \
--env SKIP_DOMAIN_VALIDATION=false \
--env NEXTCLOUD_DATADIR="/mnt/ncdata" \
--volume nextcloud_aio_mastercontainer:/mnt/docker-aio-config \
--volume /var/run/docker.sock:/var/run/docker.sock:ro \
ghcr.io/nextcloud-releases/all-in-one:latest

I am getting my first 3D-printer (a Prusa CORE One) this week! I have tons of ideas that I want to get started with, but the most time-sensitive one is to make some self-watering planters for my balcony (so I can have time to grow some greens in the season). I wanted to do this without a 3D-printer last year, but I could never find any cases close to the right dimensions in the stores, and making the separator between the water reservoir and soil from off-the-shelf parts was not so easy with the cases I did find, so I hope I am able to make something functioning with my 3D-printer this year.

But I'm new to this, and I am looking for some advice to where to get started reading up on different concepts that will be relevant to this project. These are the things I am planning to dive into over the next weeks, and I am sure there are plenty of things I have not thought about at all:

1. Splitting and joining 3D-printed objects: The overall base area of the planter is too large for my 3D-printer to do in one go, and I am likely going to need four parts that I need to fuse together. I am thinking there are many "standard" ways of doing this, such as splitting with a jigsaw-puzzle pattern? I am also planning to simply glue to the parts together along the seam, and add an additional layer of glue along the boundary. Which leads to concerns about...

2. Water tightness: I know that making watertight prints is not the easiest thing in the world. The container should be able to contain water without leakage, and I am planning on reading up on all the ways to make the prints themselves as impermeable to water as possible. I am sure there are much to learn in terms of slicer settings here. In addition, I will look into different coatings I can finish it up with, such as a layer of water-proof wood glue. However, the water here will be absorbed by the soil and then by the plant's roots, so this coating should be non-toxic.

3. Material choice: To begin with, I will only have PLA available, but I can get other filaments if needed. There are two immediate concerns I have about this: whether it is food-safe (for the same reason as above) and whether it is suitable for outdoors use. It will not be in direct sunlight, as I will build a wooden case around these 3D-printed containers, but the planters themselves will be, so it could get a little hot during Summer. Any other considerations I need to make?

4. Modelling the parts: I am already familiar with Blender, and planned on using it for the first project. I have FreeCAD installed, but zero experience. The shapes are simple, and I am sure I can draw up something in Blender in no time. But since I want to split them up, and join them ideally as flush as possible, will the models be precise enough? Dimensional precision is the main reason I've heard for using CAD-software over Blender for hobby basis.

I frequently use KRunner to do simple sums when doing my accounting. I keep a ledger with numbers formatted as e.g. 1,000.00. My system settings in KDE for number formatting under Region & Language is set to British English, i.e. the way I want it. However, whenever I copy a sum from KRunner, e.g. "1000.25 + 1000.25", it is copied as "2000,5" (i.e. no thousands-delimiter, wrong decimal point and only one decimal number). It gets a bit annoying to change this manually.

I can't seen to find any specific settings for this in KRunner or the Calculator plugin, and I would expect it to respect KDE's own settings.

Does anyone know how to force KRunner to do my bidding here?