1

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/15197450

This is another appreciation-post on how awesome semi-hydro/ LECA can be.

Today, I want to show you how my propagator dome works and how to build one for yourself very easily!

TL;DR

  • It uses inorganic media like expanded clay pebbles, Seramis, pon, perlite, or whatever you choose.
  • You fill small modified cups with the media and then place your seeds or cuttings in them.
  • The media is completely inert and can be sterilized, so you don't have to worry about mold, fungus gnats, or whatever!
  • You can't over- or underwater it, it's always moist, but very well aerated.
  • This is my personal aerocloner-killer!

Why I build it (backstory)

I've always had trouble getting seeds started, especially for soil plants. They almost always got moldy and the success rate was low, especially due to waterlogging. And because I didn't want to mix soil with hydroponics, I had to search for an alternative.

Some people use rock wool for that, but I always found it too expensive and impractical.

Propagation via cuttings has also been hard for me. Like most people, I started with just a glass of water, but this very often caused rotting due to a lack of oxygen.

So, I built an aerocloner this year. This is basically an aeroponic cloning unit, where cuttings are placed in, which get sprayed with small droplets all the time. It worked really great, but my main issue with it was the noise. It needs an air pump running 24/7, which I found annoying.

I also needed a separate dome just for seeds, which feels redundant.

Many people also just place their cuttings into peat or coco, and they root very well too, as long as they get enough oxygen.

How it works

All semi-hydro substrates have some intrinsic wicking capabilities due to capillary action. This means, that if they stand in water, it gets drawn up all to the top, making the whole medium moist.

In between (and IN) the beads is a lot of empty space. Media like those can only store 30% water or so in their pores, and the rest is air. Air the roots need to breathe!

This means, that the LECA is always wet, but never water logged or compacted like coco, soil or other organic media can be!

Advantages

  • Inorganic media are inert, they don't decompose or get eaten by mold or bugs
  • As long as you refill the water in the tray once a week or so, you don't have to worry about too dry conditions, both the substrate and the air humidity. And even if you forget to water, it will stay moist for more than a few days after it has run dry.
  • No waterlogging (anaerobic conditions due to overwatering) possible.
  • Roots are already adapted for both soil AND hydro environments.
  • No fungus gnats or other bugs, because they can't eat or live in the hostile substrate.
  • Added stabillity for cuttings.
  • No spillage, no mess.
  • The LECA beads are very easy to remove without harming the roots.

How to build it yourself and use it

What you'll need

  • A humidity dome/ seedling starter (available everywhere)
  • A bright spot, e.g. your grow tent or windowsill
  • (Optional: heating mat)
  • A few small cups with lids, optimally made out of HDPE or PP
  • A nail, lighter and something for holding
  • Destilled water
  • LECA or another medium. I like LECA with a small size (4-8 mm) the most for this use case, especially for cuttings.

Preparing the cups

  • Separate the lid from the bottom
  • Heat a nail and melt a few holes into the bottom. They can be very small, and 4 are sufficient. Try to make the edges as smooth as possible. Too many holes can make removing the roots harder. https://slrpnk.net/pictrs/image/72fc6f2a-56b0-4f69-afe2-368fb6abf0cc.jpeg
  • Burn a hole into the lid and but a section off. Otherwise, it will be hard to remove.
  • Fill it up with your medium
  • Turn it around, take your cutting and push it into the hole while shaking lightly. That way, the stem will just slide into it without effort. Turn it again and give it another small shake. The medium is now locked up and the cutting can't move.

How to use

  • Moisten the LECA with a spray bottle. If they are dry, the wicking won't work as great or will take longer.
  • Try to water the tray, not the top of the substrate at first. Fine seeds might get washed out otherwise.
  • You can just sow the seeds directly onto the substrate and put the lid on it. As soon as they germinate, the roots will "burrow" themselves very lightly into the pores of the hydroton and be fixed there.
  • Some heating from below with a heating mat is beneficial

Here are some pictures of a cactus (right after germination) and some cuttings (Tradescantia, hops, Ctenanthe) I made just a few days before:

18

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/15197450

This is another appreciation-post on how awesome semi-hydro/ LECA can be.

Today, I want to show you how my propagator dome works and how to build one for yourself very easily!

TL;DR

  • It uses inorganic media like expanded clay pebbles, Seramis, pon, perlite, or whatever you choose.
  • You fill small modified cups with the media and then place your seeds or cuttings in them.
  • The media is completely inert and can be sterilized, so you don't have to worry about mold, fungus gnats, or whatever!
  • You can't over- or underwater it, it's always moist, but very well aerated.
  • This is my personal aerocloner-killer!

Why I build it (backstory)

I've always had trouble getting seeds started, especially for soil plants. They almost always got moldy and the success rate was low, especially due to waterlogging. And because I didn't want to mix soil with hydroponics, I had to search for an alternative.

Some people use rock wool for that, but I always found it too expensive and impractical.

Propagation via cuttings has also been hard for me. Like most people, I started with just a glass of water, but this very often caused rotting due to a lack of oxygen.

So, I built an aerocloner this year. This is basically an aeroponic cloning unit, where cuttings are placed in, which get sprayed with small droplets all the time. It worked really great, but my main issue with it was the noise. It needs an air pump running 24/7, which I found annoying.

I also needed a separate dome just for seeds, which feels redundant.

Many people also just place their cuttings into peat or coco, and they root very well too, as long as they get enough oxygen.

How it works

All semi-hydro substrates have some intrinsic wicking capabilities due to capillary action. This means, that if they stand in water, it gets drawn up all to the top, making the whole medium moist.

In between (and IN) the beads is a lot of empty space. Media like those can only store 30% water or so in their pores, and the rest is air. Air the roots need to breathe!

This means, that the LECA is always wet, but never water logged or compacted like coco, soil or other organic media can be!

Advantages

  • Inorganic media are inert, they don't decompose or get eaten by mold or bugs
  • As long as you refill the water in the tray once a week or so, you don't have to worry about too dry conditions, both the substrate and the air humidity. And even if you forget to water, it will stay moist for more than a few days after it has run dry.
  • No waterlogging (anaerobic conditions due to overwatering) possible.
  • Roots are already adapted for both soil AND hydro environments.
  • No fungus gnats or other bugs, because they can't eat or live in the hostile substrate.
  • Added stabillity for cuttings.
  • No spillage, no mess.
  • The LECA beads are very easy to remove without harming the roots.

How to build it yourself and use it

What you'll need

  • A humidity dome/ seedling starter (available everywhere)
  • A bright spot, e.g. your grow tent or windowsill
  • (Optional: heating mat)
  • A few small cups with lids, optimally made out of HDPE or PP
  • A nail, lighter and something for holding
  • Destilled water
  • LECA or another medium. I like LECA with a small size (4-8 mm) the most for this use case, especially for cuttings.

Preparing the cups

  • Separate the lid from the bottom
  • Heat a nail and melt a few holes into the bottom. They can be very small, and 4 are sufficient. Try to make the edges as smooth as possible. Too many holes can make removing the roots harder. https://slrpnk.net/pictrs/image/72fc6f2a-56b0-4f69-afe2-368fb6abf0cc.jpeg
  • Burn a hole into the lid and but a section off. Otherwise, it will be hard to remove.
  • Fill it up with your medium
  • Turn it around, take your cutting and push it into the hole while shaking lightly. That way, the stem will just slide into it without effort. Turn it again and give it another small shake. The medium is now locked up and the cutting can't move.

How to use

  • Moisten the LECA with a spray bottle. If they are dry, the wicking won't work as great or will take longer.
  • Try to water the tray, not the top of the substrate at first. Fine seeds might get washed out otherwise.
  • You can just sow the seeds directly onto the substrate and put the lid on it. As soon as they germinate, the roots will "burrow" themselves very lightly into the pores of the hydroton and be fixed there.
  • Some heating from below with a heating mat is beneficial

Here are some pictures of a cactus (right after germination) and some cuttings (Tradescantia, hops, Ctenanthe) I made just a few days before:

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 22 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

Bazzite Bazzite Bazzite!

I was at the same point a while ago.

Everything I touch breaks, and I also had enough of my system breaking because updating with an unstable power grid is like playing russian roulette.

I turned to Fedora Silverblue first, then rebased to uBlue. Aurora first, and then Bazzite. Silverblue feels exactly as the regular variant, Aurora is great for desktop use, and for my gaming PC, Bazzite is fucking great. It just works.

It comes with a lot of tweaks and super many small additions that just make your life easier, especially for gaming.

Updates just happen in the background when there's nothing better to do and get applied to the next boot image. And in case something doesn't work as expected, you can always go back in time.

You can also customise it almost/ just as much as regular distros, but it isn't quite as easy if you want to customise A LOT (e.g. using TWMs).

I didn't notice huge performance boosts tho, it just comes with more tools ootb, for example to make your GPU more silent when idle.

As said, Bazzite is based on Fedora, so you always get new great modern stuff, at the same time as the other Fedora users do.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 18 points 1 month ago* (last edited 1 month ago)

I have a Logitech MX Master 3s and can really recommend it to you.

It's on the expensive side, sure, but for something I use daily it's worth it for me. It is a really great device!

It doesn't have a (easily) replaceable battery tho. I didn't take a look at how to replace it, but I think it might be as hard, or easier, than with an electric toothbrush or something, if that's really important to you.

I can't even remember when I charged that thing the last time, and I think that's a good sign for the power consumption. So, even if the battery looses 50% of its capacity over 5-10 years, it will still last for weeks and charge in a very short time, and by that time, it will look so used and disgusting, that you might consider buying a new mouse.

You can also use it while charging (looking at you, Apple mouse!), and it has an USB-C port that also acts not only for power, but also as signal line if you want.

It has a Bluetooth-only mode (for connecting multiple PCs), a wireless dongle, and as said a wired connection.

1
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/kaufempfehlungen@feddit.org

Ich weiß nicht, ob das thematisch hier herpasst. Wenn nicht, poste ich es woanders :)


Ich finde ja die Hetze gegen MSG total bescheuert. Man nimmt täglich, selbst, wenn man auf zugesetztes Glutamat verzichtet, irgendwas um die 5-10 g dieser lebenswichtigen Aminosäure zu sich, einfach nur durch Protein. Auf die ganze (teils rassistische) Debatte, wie es zum "China Restaurant Syndrome" und dem "bösen" Glutamat kam, will ich hier erstmal verzichten.

Die Lebensmittelindustrie hat gemerkt, dass man mit etwas Glutamat, Paprika und Käsepulver jeden Dreck, darunter auch Maischips, die man sonst als Verpackungsmaterial verwendet, lecker machen kann.

Umgekehrt können WIR uns das selbe Prinzip zu Nutze machen und gesunde Lebensmittel, wie Gemüse, damit ein gutes Stückchen weit schmackhafter machen.

Eine kleine Prise MSG kann eine Paprikapfanne beispielsweise mega gut werden lassen!

Oder, ein klein wenig Hefeextrakt in der Soße schmeckt wie Rinderbrühe, nur halt in vegan. Meine selbstgemachte vegane Bratensauce schmeckt, laut Fleischesser-Freunden, mehr nach Fleisch (Rind) als jede echte Bratensauce!

1
Ätherische Öle (slrpnk.net)
submitted 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/kaufempfehlungen@feddit.org

Ätherische Öle riechen nicht nur toll, sondern können bei vielerlei Beschwerden sehr nützlich sein.

Leider werden sie viel zu oft mit irgendwelchen Spinnern, die mit Globuli und Esotherik Krebs heilen wollen, in einen Topf geworfen.

Dabei haben viele Terpene, die ein Hauptbestandteil der Öle sind, einen (teilweise krassen!) medizinischen Nutzen!


Beispielsweise hatte ich vor kurzem wochenlang mit einer Hefeinfektion auf meiner Haut zu kämpfen, die immer schlimmer wurde.
Ich hätte bei sowas einen Termin beim Hautarzt ausmachen müssen, nur, dass er das ohnehin schon offensichtliche bestätigt, und mir dann eine Salbe gibt, klar. Stattdessen habe ich mir täglich Teebaumöl auf die Stelle geschmiert, und nach 3 Tagen war sie restlos verschwunden. Die Schuppenflechte in meinen Augenbrauen, die ich schon seit Jahren hatte, hab ich damit ebenfalls innerhalb weniger Tage bekämpfen können.

Bei einem grippalen Infekt/ entzündeten Mandeln hilft z.B. eine Gurgellösung, bestehend aus ein paar Tropfen Thymian-, Salbei- und Zitronenöl, emulgiert mit etwas Lecithin. Kurz gurgeln, dann ausspucken. Nach wenigen Stunden ist der Eiter im Hals weg.

Und gegen das Kopfweh, verstopfter Nase und Husten hilft Eucalyptus- und Pfefferminzöl, das man auf ein Wattepad tropft und sich unter die Nase hält.


Viele Öle haben eine wissenschaftlich nachgewiesene Wirkung, insbesondere gegen Bakterien, Pilze, Insekten und Viren, aber auch auf die Stimmung und Atemwege.

Meine Must-Haves sind meiner Meinung nach:

  • Teebaum
  • Lavendel
  • Zitronengras
  • Eucalyptus und Pfefferminze
  • Thymian
  • Salbei
  • Und vielleicht noch ein paar, je nach individuelle Beschwerden.

Aber mit der Liste sollte alles grobe abgedeckt sein, von Kopfschmerzen, Eiter im Hals, Hefeinfektionen, Unruhe, bis hin zu gereizter Haut durch Mückenstiche/ Sonnenbrand.


Wichtig: Informiert euch VOR der Anwendung, genauso, wie ihr es bei Medikamenten aus der Apotheke machen würdet. Manche können Allergien auslösen (insbesondere limonenhaltige), die Schleimhäute reizen (die wenigsten dürfen pur angewendet werden!), die Haut lichtempfindlich machen, oder bei Einnahme giftig sein.

Natürlich != harmlos!

1

Scharfe Messer sind mir sehr wichtig, und euch sollten sie es auch sein.

Stumpfe erhöhen nicht nur das Verletzungsrisiko, weil man mehr Kraft aufwenden muss, und dann blöd abrutscht, sondern man zermatscht damit super leicht seine Tomaten beim Schneiden, oder heult beim Zwiebelschneiden, weil sämtliche Säfte austreten.

Daher stecke ich meine Küchenmesser nicht nur in einen Messerblock (bzw. inzwischen hab ich mir so einen Gummifächer 3D-gedruckt, wo sie sanft gehalten werden), damit sie nicht durch anderes Besteck stumpf werden, sondern schärfe sie regelmäßig nach.

Dafür verwende ich einen Nassschleifstein.

Anwendung

Diesen legt man vor dem Benutzen in warmes Wasser (ich mach noch nen Spritzer Klarspüler dazu, damit es mehr aufsaugt) und legt mit dem Schärfen los. Wie das geht, könnt ihr euch z.B. auf YouTube erklären lassen. Das braucht ein klein wenig Übung, ist aber eigentlich recht simpel, und man kriegt schnell ein Gefühl dafür, wo die Schneide noch nicht fertig ist. Das merkt man am Geräusch und der Haptik.

Vor jedem Benutzen zieh ich sie kurz über den Wetzstahl, um die Kante gerade zu kriegen.

Wenn man es richtig macht, kann das Messer durch sein Eigengewicht durch die Tomate gleiten!

Von solchen angewinkelten Schleifblöcken wie den hier halte ich nichts. Die machen nur die Klinge kaputt und schärfen NULL.

Macht es einfach mit der Hand. Das dauert pro Messer 2-5 Minuten, und man macht es 1x im halben Jahr oder so.


Woher?

Ein Schleifstein kostet ca. 10€ und kriegt ihr z.B. im Baumarkt, und ich hab sogar schon mal welche beim TEDi gesehen! Meinen hab ich von Amazon, weil ich noch zusätzlich einen ultrafeinen für mein Rasiermesser haben wollte.

Aber eigentlich ist nur einer mit 1000er und 4000er Körnung, sowie ein Rundungsstein zum Abrunden der Kanten und Begradigen der Fläche notwendig.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 45 points 2 months ago* (last edited 2 months ago)

Then how do you explain the continued success of Mint?

Because Mint's philosophy is to make a friendly, simple and usable system for everyone.

That may be for people who came from Windows before, or those who like their OS to be a bit more conservative, meaning no flashy stuff, boring, and just working. Just like Windows was "in the good ol' days".

This makes it accessible and usable by everyone, including Linux sysadmins who come home after work and don't want to deal with annoying computers and fixing things.

Everything on Mint feels high quality, functional and cohesive.

ElementaryOS on the other hand feels like a cheap MacOS clone, but nothing works. Those who want Mac, buy a Mac.

Mint/ Cinnamon on the other hand is similar to Windows (XP, 7, etc.), but not a copycat. It's familiar enough to be intuitive for Windows users, but much enough it's own thing.

Mint's main focus is to get a uncomplicated, and usable system, while Elementary's focus is to just do what Apple does. ... Well, did. 15 years ago. They totally forgot how much work maintaining a distro and a desktop with a whole app suite is, and just stopped working on it.

While Gnome and KDE (and other WMs/ DEs) got magnitudes better in just one year (e.g. Plasma 6), Pantheon (and Elementary) just stagnated the last 5 years or so.

They don't even offer/ work on Wayland yet, or other new things.

Either they'll stop working on Elementary, and focus only on Pantheon, so it can live on on other distros, or it will just continue dying like it does currently.

252
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world

I don't print any abrasive materials at all. Pretty much only normal PLA and PETG.

I noticed, that my print quality gradually went down quite a bit, especially in the last few prints. I had a lot of stringing, weird blobs, and scarred surfaces.

Now, the print quality is as good as it should be!

They are dirt cheap. You can get a set of 10-15 generic ones, in different sizes, for only a few bucks. Don't forget that they are consumables.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 47 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

Just a small (or maybe big?) tip for you 🙂

If it's for Linux, there's a 50% chance there are no releases and 2 lines of commands showing how to build it (which doesn't work on your distro), but don't worry because your distro has it prepackaged 1 version out of date

There's a tool called Distrobox.
You can install it (via CLI I think?), and then manage it the easiest graphically way via BoxBuddy (available in your Software Center), or just the terminal if you prefer it.

With it, you can screw all those "Doesn't work on my distro" moments.

You're on Linux Mint? No problems, here's the AUR for you!

✨✨✨ BONUS: Your OS won't break anymore randomly due to some AUR incompatibility, because everything is containerized! ✨✨✨

Even if you run Arch, use it to install AUR stuff. Or Debian/ Ubuntu, add PPAs only via Distrobox.

It's absolutely no virtual machine. It basically only creates a small, lightweight container with all dependencies, but it runs on your host. Similar to Flatpaks.

You can also export the software, and then it's just like you would have installed it natively!
Your distro choice doesn't matter anymore. You now can run any software written only for Suse, an abandoned Debian version 10 years ago, Arch, Fedora, Void, whatever. It's all the same.

I hope that was helpful :)

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 38 points 3 months ago

I don't see any reason to use a Raspi instead of an used thin client for selfhosting.
They use about the same energy, but the Mini-PC has x86, which has better software support, has more ports, and runs more stable.

I have a RPI for my 3D-printer (Octoprint), and I will soon replace it with a "proper" PC, because it always crashes.

Raspberry Pis are good for very small appliances, but for anything more, they suck imo

30
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world

TL;DR:

  • I can't decide between Debian and the new "immutable" Fedora server variants
  • Currently I use Debian with pretty much everything being containerised, and it works fine.
  • I'm neither very good at what I'm doing, nor want to spend my weekends troubleshooting. Opting for something new could cause some headaches I guess?
  • How did you set up CoreOS? Are there simple ways?
  • Would you recommend me something different?

My backstory with Debian

I will soon set up a new home server and need your opinion and experiences.

I'm using Debian as the OS for my current one.
While it doesn't match my "taste" perfectly, as I slightly prefer RedHat stuff, I really don't have much preference, since I don't interact with the host much anyway.
Everything is containerised via Docker, and I don't even know why I like Rocky-/ Alma more. I tried Alma once and it just clicked better, I can't explain it...
But that doesn't mean I dislike Debian, not at all!

Still, at that time I decided to go with Debian, since it's the standard for most selfhosters, has the best software support, and is completely community run, opposed to RHEL and its clones.

At that time I didn't know Distrobox/ Toolbx, and I really wanted to install CasaOS (basically a simplified Cockpit + Portainer for less techy people), because I was a total noob back than and didn't want to do everything via CLI.

Nowadays, I found alternatives, like Cockpit, and I also do more via the terminal.
And if I want to install something that doesn't support my host OS, then I just enter my Toolbx and install it there.

Still, I absolutely don't regret going for Debian. It was a good choice. It's solid and doesn't get in my way.


What has changed in the last year(s)

In the last year now, I really began to enjoy using image based distros, especially Fedora Atomic.
I really love Atomic as desktop distro, because it is pretty close to upstream, while still being stable (as in how often things change).

For a desktop workstation, that's great, because DEs for example get only better with each update imo, and I want to be as close to upstream as possible, without sacrificing reliability, like on a rolling release.
The two major releases each year cycle is great for that.

But for a server, even with the more stable kernel that's used in CoreOS from what I've heard, I think that's maybe too unstable?

I think Debian is less maintenance, because it doesn't change as often, and also doesn't require rebooting after each transaction.

But, on the contrary, I wouldn't loose much to the "immutability", because I use containers for everything anyway.
Having way better security (sane SELinux setup, rootless containers, untampered OSA, etc.) and the ability to roll back in case something doesn't work, while self updating, sounds very promising.


Setting up CoreOS; FCOS vs FIOT

The major thing that's keeping me away from CoreOS/ uCore is all the ignition-butane-stuff.
From what I've heard, it's needlessly complicated for home use, and FCOS is best suited for fleets/ clusters of servers, not just for one.

Fedora IOT seems to be simpler, but doesn't have the same great defaults and features as uCore, since there isn't an IOT variant of uBlue.
But hey, at least I have my Anaconda installer.

What do you think about installing IOT, and then rebasing to uCore?
Or, do you think FCOS is just not the right thing for my use case?

In general, do you think that it is worth it, compared to plain old Debian?


Pros vs. cons

Anyway. I'm really thinking about all of this for a long time now, and can't decide.

On the one side, it all sounds promising and great.
But, on the other side, selfhosting isn't a primary hobby of mine. I just want a solid setup I don't have to maintain much after setting everything up. Image based server OSs are still very new and often unheard of, and being an early adopter might cause a lot of headache in that case when it comes to servers.


The "right" use case?

Just in case no one has tried FCOS or FIOT here, I will continue using Debian for my main server, and only use Fedora IOT for my Octoprint server, which only gets turned on sporadically, and would greatly benefit from that.

But if there are positive experiences, then I might give it a try.


Alternatives

Or, would you recommend me something entirely different?

NixOS for example sounds great in theory, but is way too complicated for me personally.

Or, would you recommend me to give Alma another try?

Is there something even better?

8

First of all, thank you so much for your great answers under my post from yesterday! They were really really helpful!

I've now decided that I will not use something with USB. It really doesn't seem to be reliable enough for constant read-write-tasks, and I don't wanna risk any avoidable data loss and headache.

Also, it just doesn't seem to be very future proof. It would be pretty expensive, only for it to get replaced soon, and then getting obsolete. It just seemed like a band-aid solution tbh. So, no USB hard drive bay, no huge external hard drive, and no NAS just for that purpose.


A few people asked me about the hardware.

My server is a mini-PC/ thin client I bought used for 50 bucks. I've used it for about two years now, and it had even more years of usage under the belt with its' former owner. Imo, that's a very sustainable solution, that worked pretty well until now.

I used it almost exclusively for Nextcloud (AIO), with all the data being stored in the internal 1 TB SSD.

For those who are interested, here are all the hardware details:

<hwinfo -short>

Thing is, I want to get more into selfhosting. For that, my main goal is to
a) Replace Nextcloud with individual (better) services, like Immich and Paperless-ngx.
NC-AIO was extremely simple to set up and worked pretty fine, but I always found it to be bloated and a bit wonky, and, mainly, the AIO takes up all my network and resources. I just want something better, you understand that for sure :)
b) Get more storage. I'm into photography, and all those RAW photos take up SO MUCH SPACE! The internal 1 TB is just not future proof for me.
c) Maybe rework my setup, both in software, and maybe in hardware. Originally, I didn't plan to screw everything, but I think it might be better that way. The setup isn't bad at all, but now, as I got more experience, I just want it to be more solid. But I'm not sure about doing that tbh, since it really isn't a lost case.


As someone already mentioned in the last post, I really don't have a million bucks to create my own data center. I'm not completely broke, but almost :D
Therefore, I just want to make the best out of my already existing hardware if possible.

Because I decided against USB, and because I don't know if there are any slots on the mainboard that can be repurposed for additonal storage, I need your advice if there are any options to achieve that, e.g. via a PCIe slot + adapter, if I had any.
I saw one SATA III port, but that one really isn't enough, especially for extendability.

Here are the photos from both the front and back side:


My thought was, instead of buying one hella expensive 3+TB SSD drive, just screw it and make something better from scratch.

So, if you guys don't give me a silver bullet solution, aka. "you can use this slot and plug in 4 more drives", I will probably have to build my own "perfect" device, with a great case, silent fans, many storage slots, and more.

Btw, do you have any recommendations for that? (What mainboard, which case, etc.) Preferably stuff that I can buy already used.

Thank you so much!

57
submitted 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/selfhosted@lemmy.world

I'm planning to upgrade my home server and need some advice on storage options. I already researched quite a bit and heard so many conflicting opinions and tips.

Sadly, even after asking all those questions to GPT and browsing countless forums, I'm really not sure what I should go with, and need some personal recommendations, experience and tips.

What I want:

  • More storage: Right now, I only have 1 TB, which is just the internal SSD of my thin client. This amount of storage will not be sufficient for personal data anymore in the near future, and it already isn't for my movies.
  • Splitting the data: I want to use the internal drive just for stuff that actively runs, like the host OS, configs and Docker container data. Those are in one single directory and will be backed up manually from time to time. It wouldn't matter that much if they get lost, since I didn't customize a lot and mostly used defaults for everything. The personal data (documents, photos, logs), backups and movies should each get their own partition (or subvolume).
  • Encryption at rest: The personal data are right now unencrypted, and I feel very unwell with that. They definitely have to get encrypted at rest, so that somebody with physical access can't just plug it in and see all my sensitive data in plain text. Backups are already encrypted as is. And for the rest, like movies, astrophotography projects (huge files!), and the host, I absolutely don't care.
  • Extendability: If I notice one day that my storage gets insufficient, I want to just plug in another drive and extend my current space.
  • Redundancy: At least for the most important data, a hard drive failure shouldn't be a mess. I back them up regularly on an external drive (with Borg) and sometimes manually by just copying the files plainly. Right now, the problem is, if the single drive fails, which it might do, it would be very annoying. I wouldn't loose many data, since they all get synced to my devices and I then can just copy them, and I have two offline backups available just in case, but it would still cause quite some headache.

So, here are my questions:

Best option for adding storage

My Mini-PC sadly has no additional ports for more SATA drives. The only option I see is using the 4 USB 3.0 ports on the backside. And there are a few possibilities how I can do that.

  • Option 1: just using "classic" external drives. With that, I could add up to 4 drives. One major drawback of that is the price. Disks with more than 1 TB are very expensive, so I would hit my limit with 4 TB if I don't want to spend a fortune. Also, I'm not sure about the energy supply and stability of the connection. If one drive fails, a big portion of my data is lost too. I can also transform them into a RAID setup, which would half my already limited storage space even more, and then the space wouldn't be enough or extendable anymore. And of course, it would just look very janky too...
  • Option 2: The same as above, but with USB hubs. That way, I theoretically could add up to 20 drives, when I have a hub with 5 slots. That would of course be a very suboptimal thing, because I highly doubt that the single USB port can handle the power demand and information speed/ integrity with that huge amount of drives. In reality, I of course wouldn't add that many. Maybe only two per hub, and then set them up as RAID. That would make 4x2 drives.
  • And, option 3: Buy a specialized hard drive bay, like this simpler one with two slots or this more expensive one for 4 drives and active cooling. With those, I can just plug in up to 4 drives per bay, and then connect those via USB. The drives get their power not from the USB port, but from their own power supply. Also, they get cooled (either passively via the case if I choose one that fits only two drives, or actively with a cooling fan) and there are options to enable different storage modes, for example a built in RAID. That would make the setup quite a bit simpler, but I'm not sure if I would loose control of formatting the drives how I want them to be if they get managed by the bay.

What would you recommend?

File system

File system type

I will probably choose BTRFS if that is possible. I thought about ZFS too, but since it isn't included by default, and BTRFS does everything I want, I will probably go with BTRFS. It would give me the option for subvolumes, some of which are encrypted, compression, deduplication, RAID or merged drives, and seems to be future proof without any disadvantages. My host OS (Debian) is installed with Ext4, because it came like that by default, and is fine for me. But for storage, something else than Ext4 seems to be the superior choice.

Encryption

Encrypting drives with LUKS is relatively straight forward. Are there simple ways to do that, other than via CLI? Do Cockpit, CasaOS or other web interface tools support that? Something similar to Gnomes' Disk Utility for example, where setting that up is just a few clicks.

How can I unlock the drives automatically when certain conditions are met, e.g. when the server is connected to the home network, or by adding a TPM chip onto the mainboard? Unlocking the volume every time the server reboots would be very annoying.

That of course would compromize the security aspect quite a bit, but it doesn't have to be super secure. Just secure enough, that if a malicious actor (e.g. angry Ex-GF, police raid, someone breaking in, etc.) can't see all my photos by just plugging the drive in. For my threat model, everything that takes more than 15 minutes of guessing unlock options is more than enough. I could even choose "Password123" as password, and that would be fine.

I just want the files to be accessible after unlocking, so the "Encrypt after upload"-option that Nextcloud has or Cryptomator for example isn't an option.

RAID?

From what I've read, RAID is a quite controversial topic. Some people say it's not necessary, and some say that one should never live without. I know that it is NOT a backup solution and does not replace proper 3-2-1-backups.

Thing is, I can't assess how often drives fail, and I would loose half of my available storage, which is limited, especially by $$$. For now, I would only add 1 or max 2 TB, and then upgrade later when I really need it. And for that, having to pay 150€ or 400€ is a huge difference.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 30 points 3 months ago* (last edited 3 months ago)

TL;DR:

  • Completely new distro, not just another fork of Ubuntu or Arch
  • Right now not usable at all. Mostly thought for testing the concepts and underlying technologies, like the new package manager.
  • Currently offers stock Gnome, but Cosmic will follow
  • New package manager called moss
  • Image based distro, very similar to Fedora Atomic with OSTree, with rollbacks and stuff
57
submitted 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago) by Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net to c/linux@lemmy.ml

Don't get me wrong. I absolutely love Fedora Atomic (Silverblue, Bazzite, Kinoite, Aurora, IOT, etc.), more than any other distro I used, and I plant to continue using it.

It never made any problems on any of my devices, and because it is pretty much indestructible and self-managing, I even planned to install it on my Mum's new laptop, in case her current one (basically a toaster with Mint on it) breaks.

But with the last days, my trust is damaged quite a bit.

First one, where I couldn't update anymore on uBlue, because of faulty key pairs. This is a huge thing for me because uBlue updates in the background, and if I wouldn't have read it here on Lemmy, I would have found out way too late, which is a security risk imo.

And now, my devices weren't able to boot anymore due to some secure boot stuff. Again, if I wouldn't have subscribed the Fedoramagazine, I would have noticed it way too late.
I was able to just boot into an older image and just paste a few commands from the magazine's post, and it was resolved in just seconds (download time not included).

Both instances were only a minor thing for ME.
But both would have been a headache if I wouldn't follow those blogs, which is a thing only nerds (like myself) do.
Nobody else cares about their OS, it is supposed to just work, hence why I use Atomic.

I don't wanna blame the devs (both j0rge/ uBlue and the Fedora team), they were very quick, transparent and offered very simple fixes.
And, being able to just boot into an older image, just in case, is something I am very thankful for, but nothing I want to depend on.

Having to be informed about stuff like this and then having to use the CLI is just a no-go for most people.

Am I over-reacting about this too much? What's your view on those things?

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 29 points 4 months ago* (last edited 4 months ago)

Wow! Another reason to keep supporting uBlue. That's how leadership is supposed to be. He did something wrong and instantly apologizes deeply and gives us a simple solution. I'm very proud and my trust is strengthened, thanks!

I would like to share the fixing script here, but don't feel comfortable anyone executing something I copy-pasted because of security. Go and read the letter yourself, it will take literally one minute.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 41 points 5 months ago

Either Localsend, if you're only interested in that one function, or KDE Connect for the ultimate experience.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 66 points 5 months ago* (last edited 5 months ago)

GrapheneOS is probably the best option out there.

As you said, it's only for Pixels currently, because

  1. They are more secure than most other phones. They have some kind of chip built in that makes them superior. I don't know the specifics, but other commentators might add some information if needed. Something with encryption if I remember correctly. The GrapheneOS team is a bit ...picky... when it comes to security, and most other phones don't reach their requirements for a secure device.
  2. Google is one major contributor to Android, and their phones are fine tuned to work perfectly with it. Other manufacturers' phones feel less polished.
  3. It's easier to maintain one line of devices that are very similar, instead of keeping hundred phones up to date and secure. Pixels are similar to iPhones, they get updated almost simultaneously and are similar. If you now add a phone from a different line, e.g. a Fairphone or Nothing Phone, things get more complicated. If you look at Calyx (more onto that later), the FP4 caused quite some headaches for the dev team.

Pixels are cheap(ish) for what you get, and I believe Google makes them so cheap because 99% of users don't care which ROM/OS is installed. Those are the advertisment-cows that will get milked. If you buy a Pixel and install a custom ROM on it, they will loose money.


My experience with GrapheneOS has been great. My Pixel 5 hit EOL a while ago and still gets maintenance updates almost weekly.
Many security additions are overkill for me, but quite some make a lot of sense.

I used CalyxOS for a year too, but now that I don't get full updates anymore, I don't feel safe anymore with it.

I think GrapheneOS is technically superior to Calyx, especially due to the sandboxing they do. MicroG has full root privileges and can do with your phone what it wants, while also breaking some apps due to missing dependencies. If you choose to enable Play Services on GrapheneOS, they are user level and heavily restricted, and only you decide how much access you want to give them.

Regarding Calyx, since they don't limit themselves as much in terms of security, they also offer a ROM for the Fairphone. Maybe check that out too.

DivestOS also seems to be a good option. AFAIK it's based on LineageOS and supports a lot of devices, while being more secure than LOS.

Regarding Linux phones, I don't have any experience with them. I tried Phosh (Mobile Gnome) on an exhibition a while ago, and it felt great and interesting, but from what I've heard, they are nowhere as good as Android.


My personal ranking:

  1. GrapheneOS on a Pixel. Get an used/ refurbished device if you don't want to support Google. Best price-performance ratio, great OS, and very good hardware (battery life, camera, etc.)
  2. CalyxOS on a Fairphobe. Modular device with good repairability. Nowhere near as good in terms of what you'll get for your money. Better security than 95% of other phone ROMs, oh, and you can just swap your battery in seconds if you want that :D
  3. DivestOS on a random supported phone, e.g. a China device. Nowhere near as sustainable (short lived update support, no spare parts, etc.)
  4. Linux phone. Only a good option for a tinkering device right now imo.
[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 18 points 5 months ago

This may be an unpopular opinion, but you can use pretty much anything you like, as long as it isn't brand new or extremely old.
Even stuff with Nvidia GPUs and stuff.
Even MS Surface devices work decently.

Thing is, for a really smooth experience, where you don't feel like a second class citizen, and everything works ootb, proper support is advantageous.

I have a Dell XPS laptop, and it works fine. Sometimes, the WiFi switches itself off, and I have to restart the connection, but other than that, everything is flawless.
Thinkpads are great too, since they are also used heavily in offices, where they get thrown out or sold cheaply. Maybe ask there.

I personally would recommend something that you can repair yourself, or at least change the battery and memory.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 54 points 6 months ago

Logseq.

What is Logseq?
It's a non-linear note taking app that allows smart linking and is made as a second brain.

It makes use of the Zettelkasten system, where, in theory, you make notes of everything and categorize it. Over time, you offload your brain and make it free for more productive stuff.

Logseq is often considered as a FOSS alternative to Obsidian.

[-] Guenther_Amanita@slrpnk.net 17 points 6 months ago

Because it's outdated. They are a lot of work and can cause package conflicts or errors, making the whole system less reliable.

If you need something, that's not in your package manager, then use Distrobox and create an Arch container, and use the AUR for example.
You can export the program after installing, and it integrates better into your system.

By doing that, the devs have to do the work only once and you will have less problems.

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Guenther_Amanita

joined 6 months ago