This is what the board currently looks like on my desk, I love it (even though the missing RGBs look silly hahahha)
Conceivably it should work, but I'm afraid this one got away from you a little bit, and I can't quite tell where the traces would need to go to bridge them with wire. Are you using an open source PCB where you could examine the schematic.
Not judging, by the way. Half the reason I build my own boards is because of how annoyed I got with myself after failing to repair the spacebar on an FL-Esports 1800 and eventually lifting a pad. That board ended up supplying hotswap sockets to two others and was eventually re-wired to see if I would could do a board that big and if I might like red switches. For the record, "Yes I could," and "No I don't." I still have cold joints sometimes, but I generally spot them before I declare a project done.
Someone in !mechanical_keyboards@programming.dev suggested a bodge wire, that's what I'll look into when I have more time (instead of relying on PCB traces) Given how much I already damaged the board (as seen in the picture), I hope this will be a safer method
i am seeing a lot of blobby solder joins. Use flux and enough heat.
I admit that my soldering skills are fairly limited, and I have a very basic soldering iron (I don't know if I should upgrade to a better one, as I don't have any use for it besides this keyboard)
It's usually more an issue of technique than it is the tools. Does your iron have adjustable heat settings (they usually do)? Make sure you have that high enough. Additionally you need to hold the iron to the pads long enough for them to heat up and have the solder bond to them. If the pads aren't hot enough even if the solder melts it won't flow over the pad and make a good connection. Using flux is a must. Flux helps remove the layer of oxide and any foreign contaminants from the contacts allowing the solder to flow and bond easily as well.
The easiest way to tell if the pad is hot enough is the solder will flow across it instead of staying balled up.
ErgoMechKeyboards
Ergonomic, split and other weird keyboards
Rules
Keep it ergo
Posts must be of/about keyboards that have a clear delineation between the left and right halves of the keyboard, column stagger, or both. This includes one-handed (one half doesn't exist, what clearer delineation is that!?)
i.e. no regular non-split¹ row-stagger and no non-split¹ ortholinear²
¹ split meaning a separation of the halves, whether fixed in place or entirely separate, both are fine.
² ortholinear meaning keys layed out in a grid
No Spam
No excessive posting/"shilling" for commercial purposes. Vendors are permitted to promote their products/services but keep it to a minimum and use the [vendor] flair. Posts that appear to be marketing without being transparent about it will be removed.
No Buy/Sell/Trade
This subreddit is not a marketplace, please post on r/mechmarket or other relevant marketplace.
Some useful links
- EMK wiki
- Split keyboard compare tool
- Compare keycap profiles Looking for another set of keycaps - check this site to compare the different keycap profiles https://www.keycaps.info/
- Keymap database A database with all kinds of keymap layouts - some of them fits ergo keyboards - get inspired https://keymapdb.com/