I have different sets of headphones for home and travel. I can't recommend any noise canceling in transit as I value situational awareness. I really love my Koss utility headphones. At home I still have big open-back cans so I can hear loud knocking or my family. I can't tell the difference between my old $100 Sennheisers and my $50 Samson SR850, bit I'm almost 50yo. I would look for whatever open-back cans have aftermarket earpads.
Former audio engineer here. Things that touch your body are highly subjective. Add in the audio angle, and the variables spiral out of control. Driver size is a guideline, but not an absolute litmus. This is a leaky comparison, but a great set of IEMs might have 10mm drivers. A high-end smaller driver will be more accurate than a cheap larger driver.
When I'm considering a new set of headphones or earbuds, I start by looking for aspects that generally outline a quality set of audio gear, such as AptX HD support, serviceability/rebuildable/parts availability, driver type and manufacturer, DAC manufacturer, wired option, etc. None of these by themselves are indicators of quality, but they are typically common to good gear. A published response curve from an independent lab is a nice-to-have. Once I approach the pull-the-trigger phase, I'll consider reviews from SoundGuys and people I trust in my circle.
ANC nukes audio quality. There are plenty of decent sounding cans with ANC, but they take an instant hit to sound and massive bump in price. In my experience, better ANC means lower sound quality. I prefer passive noise reduction for noisy environs. Comply foam eartips on your IEMs go a long way to improving isolation. Yes, this would mean a set of headphones and a set of IEM, and picking the right tool for the job. I've tried a bunch of ANC gear: Sony WF-1000XM4, Sony WH-1000XM4/5, Bose QC, Sennheiser HDB 630, and so on. In the end, I always go back to my wired hardware because it just sounds that much better.
Frequency response is the really the most meaningful tech spec. The larger the range, the more sounds the phones can reproduce on the low and high end. However, that does become less meaningful when listening to heavily compressed and processed sources. Also, I would guess that all the options you are considering have the same frequency response, so might not really be a consideration.
Bluetooth version is the next consideration. You want the newest version available, or at least no older than the version your source device runs. The higher versions provide more bandwidth, so theoretically less compression during transmission. It seems common to use older chips in more budget friendly headphones in order to save cost. The average user probably doesn't care, but if you are concerned about sound quality, it can be a factor.
Honestly, your source material is probably more of a hindrance to quality than your equipment. Compression is the enemy. Unless you are going to get into lossless codecs and/or analog sources, you won't be pushing the limits of the headphones you are considering. This is not to say you shouldn't get a nice pair, more just a fair warning that you're not gonna get a major quality boost from just changing your headphones.
Thank you very much! Right now I stream music with Qobuz (that has Hi-Res audio) and I'm building my offline library of flac files.I never really looked at my phone bluetooth version/drivers ecc but I bought my phone last year so I think it should be decent.
However I'm struggling to understand the whole "frequency response" thing. I can find various graphs but I don't really know what they mean.
Frequency Response is a measure of if your cans can play from very low notes to very high notes all at the same loudness. The most important thing in those graphs is that they are flat, meaning even. The next most important thing is where the bass response drops off. Lower is better.
It is true for all speakers and headphones, but it is not as straight forward for headphones because everyone's ear is shaped different thus will mess with the FR. Good headphones are flat and go down to at least 30Hz. Lower is better.
Depending on your player, you may use Digital Signal Processing to help flatten things out. Its complicated, but the results can be fantastic.
I don't think it's been mentioned yet, but open vs closed is an important consideration. Open tend to be better IMHO but only if you listen in a closed controlled environment. If you are surrounded by noise, closed backed headphone are better because what little you gain in playback fidelity is dwarfed by cutting out the noise of kids playing, the kitchen fan running while dad cooks and people talking on the subway. Good sound isolation is heaven when needed, but also slightly impacts bass response. I have both and use the right one for the environment.
BudgetAudiophile
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