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Right size is key. Everything else is second to that.
I'd second this.
Also, factoring in the price of a tune up is always a good idea when buying a used bike: you never know how long it's been since the bike has been cared for.
A tune up itself basically costs $100, though, so that's most of their budget.
The best bet is to buy from a place like Working Bikes in Chicago, a charity that takes donated bike parts and frames and has PTO mechanics get them ship-shape before reselling them. I'm sure there's similar operations other places.
Make sure it's not stolen. This price range can be real territory for the junkie looking to make a quick flip.
Steel frame in good shape from a quality manufacturer with easily sourced parts. Stick with major reputable manufacturers like Trek, Marin, etc. If you can get something with disc brakes, great! If not, v-brakes are what I've got on mine commuter and they work just fine (I recommend Koolstop for brake pads).
Check everything over for damage or wear, fix up or replace whatever's wrong, and enjoy a bike that will probably last you for the rest of your life: Steel is real!
Steel frame in good shape from a quality manufacturer
for $150? come on. Trek or Marin's best frames are aluminum.
If the trail is paved then I would look for an older steel frame road bike
Road bikes make such a difference! I found a 25 yo Peugeot in mint condition that was exactly right for my hight; and converted it to a commuter bike (flat pedals, high handlebar, mud guards, strong tires). The way the frame transfers the energy you put into the drivetrain feels fantastic.
Yes it’s paved (an old rail line that was paved and converted to a trail)
Then yeah I think an old steel road bike would be good, the brakes and gears are pretty simple to work on with lots of tutorials available
Aluminum frames are pounds lighter and last decades. No point pushing extra weight over some kind of tribal mythology.
But steel can be welded or brazed to add to or repair it (I say knowing full well that I probably never will with my bikes, and that an aluminum bike would probably last just as long for casual use).
I do think that the weight difference is overblown for 95% of riders. 500-1000 grams of mass on the frame is not really going to make or break anything for a casual rider.
I'd be looking for disc brakes and a geometry that fit me well.
Rim brakes are just as good. Disc brakes are a marketing tool.
Rim brakes are just as good.
Um ... no.
Having used both, I can tell you there's a huge difference in stopping power and hand effort needed to stop.
There are also a few side benefits such as wheels no longer needing to be perfectly straight in order to prevent brakes from dragging, making it easier to remove and reinstall wheels, and being able to ford through deeper water without getting your braking surface wet.
I guess maybe if you're just puttering around the greenway at walking speeds, then the difference won't be important to you, but there definitely is a big difference. And even if you're not using the bike for anything high performance, it's still good to be able to stop faster, in case some kid runs out in front of you or something. Rim brakes are okay, if that's all you've got. But for the relatively princely sum of $150, I'd expect an upgrade to discs. Hell, my current off-road bike has discs, and I bought that brand new for $200. You should definitely be able to find a used bike with discs for $150. For some old crap with rim brakes, I wouldn't go over $50.
I would say, though, that disc brakes that have sat for a little while will make an unholy racket as you burn off whatever dust settled on them in your absence.
If I was just leaving a put-around bike in a shed for 50 weeks, I might not want to deal with it.
Give the bike a test ride and make sure it fits you. The main problem will be if the bike is too big. Too small is better than too big.
The other consideration is condition. You want to make sure the shifting work through all the gears. There's no visible rust. Make sure the drivetrain doesn't squeak or creak. Make sure you can't jiggle the cranks side to side. Make sure the brakes work. Make sure you can adjust the seat height. Seatpost can get seized in the frame sometimes.
If you don't have to worry too much about hills, I recommend a single speed bike. There's no gears to worry about and single speed chains are more robust.
Wheels.
Get the right size. Avoid any bike with suspension, it just adds weight and sucks pedaling energy. Learn how to replace cables and tires.
Consult my man Calvin Jones at Park tools. Immediately replace the tires and tubes.
Otherwise, look for a properly stored bike, people treat their bikes like shit and store outdoors. Everything will be seized or corroded.
Frankly, new bikes from Walmart can be decent @ $130. They just need to be checked for proper assembly.
When I travel, I buy a new bike at Walmart instead of renting. End of trip I give it to someone.
Dang, that is absolutely a respectable bike if you just want to get around.
Honesty, that's cheaper than renting a bike for a week. I'm typically really against purchases of convenience, but I also think putting a decent bike into circulation somewhere isnt a bad move.
Size of course as mentioned. Check the tires hold air, and the wheels spin true. If youre doing nothing for repairs then review the grips and seat - contact points, since you'll feel that the most.
this post was submitted on 20 Apr 2026
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