Living in a 30 year old apartment for 5 years and no way to do repairs. It was liked this when I moved in.

$1,500 CAD/Month (current market $2000) Welcome to Halifax, NS!

Bed leveling error

The floorists forgot to enable Linear Advance.

In the cases you describe it should fail by ruining the print, not the build plate though. If there is something between the nozzle and the plate, it will be too far away from it after calibration, not too close.

Oh I've had my fair share of issues with this. i.e. little specs of the previous print color is stuck on the next print since I missed it during print clean up.

But if I am honest, for a normal spring steel PEI sheet it's perfect. And I prefer this to the magnetic solution like on the Mini since it lets me use Garolite/G10.

I've only seen this issue with the satin bed.

They've stopped using the PINDA probe?

That was the best auto bed leveling system I'd seen because it stood half a chance of ever working. The biggest problem I would see out of them was, well...the whole carriage/extruder assembly was designed by a rock chewing moron.

I used to build and maintain the printers for a little company that 3D printed parts for their products back in the beforetimes, so I've had my fair share of Prusas apart. I don't think I could design a worse mechanism if I tried.

The extruder mechanism was a demented sandwich of parts that don't make sense all made in shiny black plastic so it's hard to see their shapes. You don't build it up from one side to another, you build it up from the inside out. All the wires are supposed to route through a hole in the back of the carriage, then get pinched between the carriage and the extruder body in a couple channels that bend them at sharp right angles. The whole extruder mechanism is a demented sandwich built up from the inside out that doesn't let you easily remove and replace any of the working parts. ANY service to the extruder group, be it a new nozzle, a new fan, a new thermistor, is a complete teardown and rebuild, partially because there are no electrical connectors at that end, all the wires are 16 inches long and run all the way back to the main board. And the PINDA probe mount wasn't a separate bracket that bolts on, it's a feature of the largest, most central piece of plastic and it's attached by a thin little shard of plastic that WILL soften and deform in service.

In the case of a heavily used printer, say for production or a busy prototyping lab, you can't just have a spare extruder built up ready to bolt on and go. You can't have a hot end built up on the bench ready to swap in. If one needs maintenance or repair, it will take hours, no matter how minor the job.

It was like working on a Macbook built by BMW. I didn't charge enough for my time.

Hey, just wanna point out that having a touch sensor built into the nozzle is definitely not unheard of, my printer (Neptune 3 from elegoo) uses the same sensor. It's not the most reliable sensor in the world but it got the job done until I got my BLTouch.

Useing older firmware (was 1 version behind at the time of conversation), and a dirty nozzle which I clean regularly to prevent PETG globs from being deposited in my prints.

EDIT: The newest markings on the print bed was on the latest firmware.

I 100% agree, however I went Prusa for their replacement parts and long term support of said parts. Rather than their quality which outside of the bed levels on uneven surfaces has been good.

Exactly as you said. I call it gouging since material is being removed. But the marks aren't deep and the print surface is completely usable. Don't have a better word for it than gouging.

As for what I was doing? Restarting a print I had to stop part way last night since the filament jammed. I looked away for a second then heard knocking from the printer and was welcomed to this beautiful new mark on my print sheet.

Print sheet works, cosmetically it doesn't. I sell my prints, and having odd lines is not something I want to sell. I'm just disappointed since there was nothing I can do except watch and kill it as fast as I can.

I caution you to not put too much stock into OPs anecdotal experience. This is not a problem other people are having and is certainly not a firmware issue. I can say for certain that it has never happened for me.

Stuff sticks to my pei sheet TOO well. Clean it well... Soap and water with a new clean soft sponge. Get all the glue off and any other gunk and oil. Wipe it dry with a clean towel. Lightly rub it down with isopropyl alcohol. When dry, print on it with nothing on the sheet. I can go like 20 big prints before I have to clean it again.

At this point it's not like even if I did capture it, I'd get a new print sheet. I've just switch to G10/Garolite. Had good results with it before, but switch to Satin since I wanted a print bed for both PLA and PETG that didn't destroy the Print Bed.

Oh I wish it was. I was even printing in clear. But sadly no it's permanent.