Hi everyone, I decided there simply were not enough docker apps for downloading Youtube videos, and so I made the situation worse :p

In all seriousness, I couldn't find one that fulfilled all my desires in a YT downloader, so I wrote my own in python using pytubefix and streamlit. It's still fairly rough, but it works, and i'd love to get your feedback. Installation is just a simple docker compose.

services:
    pytube-gui:
        container_name: pytube-gui
        image: artisanbytecrafter/pytube-gui:develop
        ports:
            - 8501:8501
        volumes:
            - /path/to/downloads:/app/downloads # set to where you want downloads to go

Please let me know if you run into any issues, or have any feedback. I do still have a long list :)

Source code: https://codeberg.org/ArtisanByteCrafter/pytube-gui

Just thought I would quickly share what can happen if you're not paying attention with a heavy mass spool if you're not careful. I have all my spools on a dowel rod attached to the top of my printer enclosure and fed through an opening in the top. Never had the slightest issue with 1 kg spools, and I thought I would save a little bit of money and time changing filament by trying a 3 kg spool. It spins perfectly fine without friction, but the much heavier mass is enough to cause it to have significant strain on the extruder pulling it in to the hot end. You can see in the result where I provided strain relief by hand while watching it print.

Spotted this in a store today and promptly put my shit that I didn't need back on the shelf and walked out.

Edit: it has been pointed out this sign is most likely ironic, in line with the companies schtick. I would counter that while that may be true, behind every good joke is a little bit of the truth. They mean this unironically also.

Hi everyone - I'm doing some prototyping on a part I'm designing. The final part will take up nearly the entire build plate, but for a test print, I'm using a negative modifier to remove 80% of the part, leaving only a sliver to print. The problem is that once sliced, the part left to be printed is way over on the edge of the build plate, and I'd rather it be in the center if possible. If I position it where the edge i want printed is in the middle, it of course complains that part of the file is off the build plate and won't let me slice, even though it's all being removed with the negative modifier. Any ideas on how to get it to cut the piece and still center it?

All the sanding blocks I have seen are the nut and bolt type, but i found myself wanting something more of just a ... block. No adjusting, loosening, tightening, moving, just wrap your sandpaper around an edge and go. So I spent 15 minutes in FreeCAD and made one. So far it's working great.

In case anyone else wants it, or has feedback. https://www.printables.com/model/762884-simple-sanding-block

I'm contemplating a Prusa MK4 + official enclosure and I'm looking at the way the enclosure handles filament feeding into the (N)extruder. Normally, filament is loaded directly from the spool into the extruder, but with the official enclosure, I see it's fed through a PTFE tube and coupler. It seems to me this would make changing filaments mid print quite a pain. Would I be ok simply feeding the filament into a PTFE tube, but cutting it way short of the extruder and simply feeding it in from there into the extruder without the tube?

Hi all, I have a quick question about my z screw coupler (as i understand it, the metal cylinder at the bottom you can manually move your z axis up and down with).

When I manually raise the z axis (with steppers disabled) by rotating the coupler clockwise, after I let it go, it reverses it's rotation on it's own and sinks back down. This is frustrating because it takes forever to actually move it any distance. Am i doing anything wrong? Should you only ever move the z axis with software, and if so, is there a way to fix the issue of it going back down? I don't know how to adjust the tightness of this part, I'm still pretty new.

I still have no idea what I'm doing really. Just too determined to give up I guess, and it's been such fun. Anyway I made a guitar pedal light switch cover. Still a lot of work to do, and every time I look at FreeCAD the wrong way, the model breaks, but it's been a fun experience nonetheless.

On a side note, anybody have any idea why the face of the model is rough textured, while the foot switch on the lower half is flawless?

Good morning friends! I'm still fairly new to 3D printing, although I'm learning a lot more to be dangerous now. I'm printing this part, and I have cleaned and leveled the bed, as I do before every print, and usually have very few issues. This time, my first layer went down almost perfect, with the exception of the bottom right corner being a little bit tight, but as you can see in the picture, every once in a while, I get exactly one line of it not adhering on the first layer. Subsequent layers all seem to lay down perfectly fine, so I'm suspecting bed adhesion, it's just weird that it's only in one single line. Anyone ever experienced issues like this, and seen a remedy?

I'm a beginner 3D printing novice. I have done about 5-6 successful prints so far, and my last two have technically come out fine, but they seem very brittle. By brittle, i mean that both prints have snapped cleanly into several pieces, not by design. My extremely novice research has led me to think it's a layer adhesion issue - it is very cold here where I am right now, and I print in a non-climate controlled shed because of reasons. I do have an enclosure though, so i tried printing my PLA at 205 instead of 200, but same result. Is there a better way to correct prints snapping apart like that? I don't feel like i used any excessive force.

Ender 3 Pro Polymaker dual matte white/black PLA 1.75mm

I'm getting into 3D printing, and due to the nature of my living constraints, I find myself with a large 12 ft x 20 ft non-climate controlled but clean shed from which to print. I bought one of these small microenvironment enclosures for my ender 3 pro, but temperatures here in the winter can reach the teens, and summers over 100 Fahrenheit. I guess my question is how much temperature can those micro enclosures account for when it's extremely cold on the outside?

Hello community, I'll try to be brief. My 13 year old son got a 3d printer as a gift, and I'd like to learn alongside him. We have 0 experience. However, I am a data scientist, so lots of professional Python experience, if that helps. We're a foss/Linux family so my questions are:

What tools are the best to learn for 3d printing for me? I am ready to learn CAD programming. Can you all recommend a tech stack and resources to learn it?