I've visited once and wasn't there long enough to develop a sincere and true hate, but I was astonished by its geology and climate. While I was there I tried to contemplate what it was like before the settlers came. Just imagine standing at the tops of those hills with the basin stretching out beneath you. That scene is intoxicating to me even now, years later. And I know that same feeling is one of the reasons it's not that way today.