It's stiff at first, but you get a lot of tools to improve it. One of the moves is basically a dash similar to a megaman x game, that can be used up to 2 times and go in all cardinal directions.

That on top of the wall grab makes her feel a lot smoother later on in the game.

Also this is not even including for combat you get Iatsu and the dash I talked about earlier, which let you move all over the combat area. That on top of countering attacks and the skill specifically for countering attacks. Iatsu needs to be leveled up before you really feel how strong it is though.

the rice farming is indeed meant to make the platforming easier, so it might not be as great if you didn't enjoy that part of it.

I do agree though the game is horrible at explaining this stuff though, which can make some parts more frustrating than they need to be.