Absolutely. You can break your back or snap your neck. What causes a good surf break is a deep sea swell suddenly hitting a shallow. The best breaks tend to happen either over reefs or if the shore has a steep incline (see not Florida). If you are surfing over reefs or rocky bottom, the base of the wave might only be inches deep while the crest is feet tall with a lot of weight and power. One of the most dangerous wipeouts is when you are late and the lip of the wave flips you over, you fall on the rocks, and then a literal building heigh mountain of water lands on you smacking you into the rock, grinding into it, tumbling around into it and, for shits and giggles, not letting you come up for air.

PS: The break for this Olympics was absolutely fucking bonkers.