Similar to the one I made in oak, the other piece of hardwood board I had for this project was ash.

The jig was a bit cobbled together, which mostly worked fine for doing 2 of them. The 1-inch spacer did slip, which is where the divot I was filling with sawdust came from. Doing any more of them I'd definitely want a more thought-out jig (or CNC).

I initially had a lot of burning on test pieces. Turned out my router bit just got dull a lot faster than I expected, and after sharpening on a DMT it cut fine without any special care to speed.

I put butcher block conditioner on it, though I didn't know if that's enough to protect it from dirty pans.

I've heard people say you can mix sawdust from your workpiece with wood glue to make an invisible patch, but I've tried it twice (once in oak, once as pictured on ash) and both times it came out significantly darker and the surrounding wood. The glue is Tite Bond 3.

Does a different glue work better? How wet should the sawdust paste be? This is on the back so it doesn't matter a lot, but I'd like to have a good process for filling little mistakes.

A master wood machinist, if ever there was such a thing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyTE0OaB4oM

I made a Crytex such as the one from Da Vinci Code, out of wood. This time I used aluminum as well as a metal lathe to produce parts that would have otherwise been too fragile for a customer.
Ebenisterieeloise.com

One of my favorite rare-to-upload stuff - channels. She likes a type of classical music that resonates with me, and I like the way she composes the content, music, and voiceover, combined with clever approaches to problem solving and projects.

Put together a little box for the accessories that go with my dovetail jig. Out of poplar and of course with dovetail joinery.

Outdoor sofa to replace our falling-apart fake-plastic-wicker one, reusing the same cushions.

It's roughly following Wilker Do's Outdoor Sofa plans, however I adjusted the size, changed from a two-layer construction to lap joints / mortise-and-tenon joints, and filled in some missing details.

First time hand-cutting mortise and tenons, for the arm rest supports:

First time making half-lap joints, for the side frames; very happy with my new Infinity Tools Dadonator:

After some attempts at CAD, I ended up just cutting out scale paper parts and then measuring angles/lengths to fit them together. It mostly worked, but some lengths didn't work out in wood.

I used western red cedar for rot resistance, since this will sit unsheltered. I haven't finished it yet, I'm considering poly, boiled linseed, or Thompson's water seal (glad for recommendations). First time working with cedar, it's very soft and scratch prone, smells great, and is noticeably lighter than pine. Also pricey; one thing I didn't like about this design is it is fairly overbuilt.

Maybe this is a stupid question, but I couldn't find much info online about it.

My brain says these probably won't mix together, but I thought I would check with some more experienced woodworkers before wasting my time.

Backstory: Several years ago, my bf bought a house. One room in that house has been completely unusable because there is bad pet urine smells. I've tried everything on the planet to get it out of the hardwood floors. It's definitely better but, not good.

We know it's very likely the floor and the subfloor will need to be replaced, but as a last ditch effort, we've opted to finish the floor and try sealing it with a clear odor blocking primer. We figure, if it doesn't work, we're replacing the floors and if it does work, yay we saved some money. :D

I've been trying to match the finish to the flooring in the rest of the house. The wood appears to be Red Oak. I pulled up a board and checked the end grain. After much research, I suspect the floors were finished with some kind of oil, likely Tung or Linseed.

Current Problem: I know you have to reapply oil periodically so I'm not sure this would work with the primer that my bf already purchased.

If I put the Primer on first, I'm guessing the oil wouldn't properly soak into the wood. If I put the primer on after, will it even adhere?

TLDR: Can I use Tung Oil with a clear primer to seal in pet odor? If so, what order should be be applied?

Thanks ya'll!
PS. I love lurking on this community. You all inspired me to start building more things myself. I'm still learning, but I'm excited about it all.

Hell of a good read this, can recommend (even for a millimetre-y Brit like myself) Although it's making me want to get back to the workshop rather than enjoy the holiday 😆

I have been working on a design for a stand for my 20 gallon aquarium to sit on. Each side of a square is 2 inches long in my diagrams. Pocket hole joints are indicated by double arrows, while the lil box thingies are L brackets. I plan to attach the top to the legs using figure 8 brackets.

Are there obvious ways I could improve my design? This will be my first serious woodworking project.

Here are the side and top views:

Hi! I've only posted here maybe once, but I'm looking to change that and have been working to improve my joinery.

Specifically, I recently had the geometric realization that adjusting the horizontal angle on my miter saw is one of the least precise adjustments I can make, when trying to make two cuts that add up to 90 degrees. So instead, I now set the angle for the smaller angle, make the first cut, then set the workpiece for the second piece using a square against the fence. Basically, I'm rotating the piece so it's 90 degrees to the saw fence, and that lets me cut the complementary angle without realigning the saw angle.

The new problem is that because I'm still using slightly-warped and slightly-twisty stock, the surfaces aren't terribly great for gluing up. In one case, I glued up one end of a diagonal brace but the other end was lifting up, off-plane. Hand sanding with a block helps, but more often than not, I end up rounding off the edges and glue leaks out. So I'm now seeking recommendations for a small hand plane, so that I can have better, flatter surfaces to glue together.

Is this the right approach? If I'm mostly working with narrow stock like 1x4-inch, is there a correct-sized hand plane to smooth out an end-grain on that small of stock? Apologies in advance for not really knowing all the right wood terminology. I'm still learning.

Ideally, I'd like to buy something that will be versatile and serviceable for a long time. So cost isn't too important, but ideally it'd be proportional to my (few) other tools. If I know what to look for, I'll keep my eye out for such a specimen while at the thrift store.

EDIT: To clarify, a use-case would be if I'm gluing a diagonal brace at mid-height of a post. If i had a plane, I could work the post so that it has a flat face, so that the brace won't deviate left/right. For the diagonal brace itself, I can mostly trust my miter saw to cut the angle reasonably plumb.

EDIT 2: Might I actually want a card scraper instead?

EDIT 3: y'all are awesome and I now have a fair number of suggestions to consider. I guess there goes all my disposable money for September, once I go visit the nearby woodworking shop.

Walnut and acrylic.

Tuning pegs for musical instruments are commonly made from ebony or boxwood, but in medieval times and renaissance they would also be made from roasted maple. Maple is a relatively soft wood, so the trick is to roast it, which makes it very light and porous, and then let it soak in a mixture of linseed oil and turpentine overnight. It soaks the oil in like a sponge, going from swimming on the surface to sinking to the ground when it's saturated. The oil hardens and reinforces the wood, kind of like epoxy stabilised wood.

Burnt ash with a thin plywood backing.

This was my first time turning boxwood. I wanted to upgrade the handle of my espresso machine's portafilter. I’m really pleased with how smooth it turned out! Should I coat the boxwood, or is it fine as is?

I've posted the lower cupboard before, but here we have the (almost) finished hutch attached. I'm going to let the urethane cure for a day or two before I install the glass.

That's this dining room cupboard project finished. I learned quite a lot with this one.

I used the deArrow version of the video title, the original title: "Turning some old logs into a gift for someone VERY special"

Or at least, a side table. What is the process of doing that? I have basic hand tool for working on some other small project, a small circular saw(that attached to a marble cutter), and an electric planer, what else would i need?

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/34476930

Finally finished the case! Editing took longer than expected, finding time in between, work, being a parent and the rest of life is not the easiest. But luckily I used to play Tetris as a child.

For some reason saturation of the red colours went up, or it looks like it, after rendering the project. Haven't had that happen when editing and rendering in blender but I used Kdenlive for this project. If any of you have any idea what it could be I would love to know, cause I like the workflow of Kdenlive.

I'm taking an ash tree down on my property next week and I'm gonna build a work bench with it. I want it to be a hefty boy, so I'm going the roubo route.

Question is, since I can ask the mill for specific cuts, is there any reason I shouldn't just get one monstrous 6" slab from the middle of the trunk and use it?

i want to fill some largish knotholes and cracks in some ~2 inch walnut. i heard total boat is a good resin brand but they have a million varieties. any one have one they recommend. (doesn't have to be total boat). also what do you use to dye it black? i don't really want the pealescent look. just a flat black will work.

cross-posted from: https://lemmy.world/post/33399225

This time I'm trying something a little different. I'm making a phone case, and by me I actually mean me with the help of my brother. My Brother recently got him self a CNC machine, that means I got a CNC machine. Just so happens I also recently got a new phone. A fairphone 5, and since I lack self control, and that little voice that goes "you cant do that". I decided to try and make my own phonecase out of wood.

Feedback is much appreciated.

The last one went commando, this one's got drawers on.

A few years back I bought a big jug of Titebond2 glue, figuring it'd last me a decade fulfilling my occasional need to make some wood stick together better than nails or pocket holes. I store it on my back porch, which is indoors but only gets climate control from the blower return in the room, so the room hovers between about 50F (10C) and 90F (32C) depending on the season.

I keep it capped when not pouring it into a smaller bottle that's easier to manage.

I didn't use it last year.

This morning I had a need, so I opened the cabinet and the attached picture is what I see. The glue has gone from an off-white to this translucent reddish-brown, and it won't flow out of the bottle.

I was able to squish a decent amount onto a piece of scrap wood, and smear glue into the joints, then wipe off the excess - but it looks like I need to go buy more glue. I'm not happy about it, but I'll own that I messed up and should have bought a smaller bottle, it's on me.

Can anyone tell me what might have happened? I tried to be careful with it, but clearly something happened that I didn't plan for. What can I do to prevent this from happening in the future?

Thanks!

The Post

Very slight woodworking to fit the frame to the tabletop involved ;)

I love this standing desk, can highly recommend!

(Cannot remove the URL lol)