Models: https://makerworld.com/en/models/1134416-musical-fidget-video-game-edition#profileId-1135383

There seems to be a bit of PLA in the screw hole of the hotend, probably from a previous clog, and that is preventing me from unscrewing it. Any tips?

So I was able to get the cad files from the good folks at micro swiss for their microswiss ng ender 3 edition. I also found a step file for a generic filament slicer. How easy would it be for me to somehow combine the two? I am okay at cad. But this seems like an undertaking, unless there's an easy way to do it. Has anyone done something like this before? The closest I've found was someone made one for the microswiss ng ender 5 edition, but I haven't been able to get a hold of the creator.

All print parts in greentec pro black, the interior of the body is painted with musou black.

Test shots:

My main interest is in packing puzzles but open to any suggestions!

It was a niece request

Just a simple and (in my opinion) sleek phone stand. Link for anyone interested: printables.com/model/1251408-simple-static-phone-stand

I'm trying to print this part out of Filament-PM TPE32 on a Prusa Mk4 with a textured sheet and I'm not having much luck.

The part is a bellows with a 100%-infill plate at the top and at the bottom. Despite leaving a giant brim inside and out, the whole thing has minimal adhesion to the bed and invariably comes off when the print reaches the top-heavy section of the part.

It's maybe the 10th print I'm attempting, slowly trying to dial in the parameters. I had to crank up the bed temperature to 47 degrees for the first layer to achieve any kind of adhesion, which is odd. I have other TPU/TPE filaments that stick better (but they're too hard for my purpose).

I could achieve slightly better adhesion by cranking up the nozzle temperature above 235C, but then it start stringing so bad it leaves raised obstacles almost immediately on the first layer while building the brim, and then the head slams into the obstacles and dislodges the brim at the second layer. The only way to get a good brim (and a good part) is to lower the nozzle temperature to 223C.

Clearly the problem is that the Prusa Mk4 is a bed slinger: it shakes the part loose. We have a Prusa XL on the way that should take care of the problem, but it's coming in 3 weeks and I need the part now.

Before I slather the bed sheet generously with glue, any advise to make this print succeed on the little Mk4 without making a gooey mess with the glue?

Here's the PrusaSlicer project file if you're interested.

A while ago I bought a roll of transparent petg "the filament" by spectrum. Wonderful, it printed great, shiny, smooth. I loved it.

Then I took advantage of the promotion on the Bambu lab website "4 rolls are discounted + free shipping" and I bought their transparent petg.

I opened the vacuum bag, loaded immediately in the printer and it strings and pops. Settings are correct as the slicer has a dedicated profile for this roll.

Their website says "warning: dry before using" - they mean that it comes already too moist from the factory?

I finally wrote up my process for creating a 3D printed Alice in Wonderland shadowbox.

I used the Disney Classics #8 book cover as the art to work from. It's all 3D printed except for the laser cut acrylic sheets.

The Ghillie Spotter without mask. I think it came out good.

Hopefully this will give a more "easy to paint" approach without needing to finesse anything else to the end user, and end up having an "acceptable" compromise.

However that's something I will end up seeing with the model once it's released and I get feedback from miniature painters and those who are gonna play with it!

@3dprinting #resin #wargaming #miniature #blender #art #wip #artistic #tabletop #printing #cult3d #myminifactory

Bambu A1 mini still operates on 1.04 firmware which does not include authorization "security feature". Naturally, I want to avoid it.

I know I can meddle with router somehow, even if it does not have parental controls or other very clear option to leave it inside local network.

However I would prefer preventing update in some other way, if there is any. This little printer is quite portable and I sometimes bring it to other locations. Also, remote printing and monitoring are nice features, which would be a pity to lose.

What would you suggest, or maybe have done yourselves?

This post is a follow up to this post here Quality issues where I was having tolerance problems with lead me to discover inconsistent extrusion in base mode.

It has been quite a ride and I used a lot of the suggestions given in the last thread, and also discovered several other problems which lead to a major rebuild/redesign of the corexy x and y axis, bed motion, and extruder. Here is what I found:

The first thing I noticed were the shafts in the x/y stepper motors appears to be bent just slightly. If I watched the pulley on the motor it appeared to wobble. I replaced both motors with some spares I had laying around from various projects. The x and y gantries both move on linear rails, and I ended up totally reprinting the carriage adapters as well.

Second, I had 4 points leveling on the bed, which I know is quite controversial. I found that the z screw coupler in one corner has become stretched out and wasn't really adjusting height correctly when I ran my 4 point script. I modified the bed so two steppers are connected in series and moved the pivot point between the 2 old pivot points. The bed moves on 4 linear rails and 4 smooth rods with z-screws between the rod and the rail. I got rid of the spring type couplers and replaced them with solid couplers. Any wobble in the screw is taken up by wobble nuts.

Third, and probably most important, I realized the zesty nimble 2 extruder was suffering plastic fatigue. If your not familiar, the zesty nimble is 85%-90% sintered nylon. There is one hobbed gear and a "breech" that holds the filament against the gear. The breech clips onto ears on the main body of the nimble. One of the ears, over time, has gotten a bit weak and the breach only consistently clips into one side causing less pressure to be put on the filament against the extension mechanism. I could have inverted the mount, reprinted it, and flipped the nimble as you can use it either left handed or right handed, and bought some time, but zestytech has gone out of business, so I decided it was time for a change. I picked up a shiny new orbiter 2.5, and printed a new hot end carriage, a hero me, and totally rebuild the print head.

I spent a couple of hours updating and doing basic tuning on the config and am much happier with the results. I still need some more tuning, need to work on wire management, and come up with a better wire support instead of the old number direct drive cable. I may eventually reuse the number as a second print head extruder but that is a ways off.

Here are some of my first prints from the new setup.

I still need a bunch more tuning: extruder stepper vref tuning, retraction, print temperature, feedrate, etc, but I feel like I am finally getting somewhere.

Hi All,

I recently got back on the 3d printing scene after about a decade (Time flies!), the other day I was inspecting a failed print for a spool holder and noticed the Z axis striations seemed to follow some kind of oscillating pattern for the most part.

This made me think of the early day flight recording units and I thought if we were able to quantify these oscillations and compare them to the gcode we could derive what types of movement are causing these issues and hopefully troubleshoot them (perhaps even beyond our naked eyes capabilities)

So I drew up this back of an envelope concept and since I'm relatively inexperienced with 3D printing, I wanted to post it here and see what the communities thoughts are on it.

If it seems like a worthwhile endeavour I would be happy to invest my time in making it a reality and could hopefully publish this work (under FOSS of course) to help benefit everyones prints.

I have another one if neccessary, but I think the screw shafts on it are clogged with plastic, so it might take some work as well.

I’ve been noticing an unsettling trend in the 3D printing world: more and more printer manufacturers are locking down their devices with proprietary firmware, cloud-based software, and other anti-consumer restrictions. Despite this, they still receive glowing reviews, even from tech-savvy communities.

Back in the day, 3D printing was all about open-source hardware, modding, and user control. Now, it feels like we’re heading towards the same path as smartphones and other consumer tech—walled gardens, forced online accounts, and limited third-party compatibility. Some companies even prevent users from using alternative slicers or modifying firmware without jumping through hoops.

My question is: Has 3D printing gone too mainstream? Are newer users simply unaware (or uninterested) in the dangers of locked-down ecosystems? Have we lost the awareness of FOSS (Free and Open-Source Software) and user freedom that once defined this space?

I’d love to hear thoughts from the community. Do you think this is just a phase, or are we stuck on this trajectory? What can we do to push back against enshitification before it’s too late?

(Transparency Note: I wrote this text myself, but since English is not my first language, I used LLM to refine some formulations. The core content and ideas are entirely my own.)

So I got a ~~floppy~~ flippy drive for my GameCube and I wanna have the SD card accessible.

But instead of hacking off the original I thought it would be fun to design my own.

So far I got it to fit well enough. However some dimensions needs adjustments before I start final prints.