Yeah it's not the prettiest lol. This is 75% size, and 0.25mm layers, which doesn't help. (I just wanted to shorten print time)

I had to use Prusa Slicer because of the custom GCode features, so my settings there are not perfect yet. It also isn't controlling the aux fans properly like Creality slicer.

My normal 1 color benchies are 22 minutes and absolutely perfect, using my finely tuned Creality Slicer profile.

How do you like your ANET? Is the A8?

Color changes are VERY slow.

no, this was a print for myself to test the Chameleon. I don't sell any multicolor prints as of now.

I prefer non-proprietary parts and unlocked software you get with a rooted K1. I can edit my klipper configs directly.

This is not my multicolor-specific machine. It will be used mostly for single color regular prints

Or just well tune your printer. Bambus are fine for people who can spend more money and use proprietary software but will spend less time tinkering.

very. I spent the last 3 weeks fiddling with the timing. If you are not willing to troubleshoot and work on it I'd go for a ready-built solution like the AMS. I like the challenge, but definitely underestimated it

Most of it was me not fully understanding what was happening in the filament swap gcode. Once I understood that I was able to tweak settings to make it work. Once I found out certain filaments are just trouble I have had better luck. Still working on getting it to be less picky.

the updated version in April is going to have sensor-less detection of where the filament is in it's path, which will make timing a non-issue. Any Chameleon sold until then will have the hardware needed, and can be updated for free in April. can't waiit

Overall I love it. If you are into tinkering, which it sounds like you are, you'll like it.

My K1 is about 4x faster than my modded ender 3. I print at 420mm/s max speed on my K1 with 20k mm/s2 max acceleration. It is amazing how fast things finish. Overnight prints are now day prints.

You can get near-perfect prints out of the box, but will want to do some calibration to get better results. There are built in calibration tools in the Creality slicer. There is a VFA problem, but it seems to go away if I print walls above 220mm/s. Printing with polycarbonate is now fully possible and I love it. I print most replacement parts for the printer in PC.

being able to use volcano nozzles is way better than anything proprietary. They are dirt cheap and you can get them in all different sizes.

This thing is fully able to be modded, which I love about it. I've added:

• second side aux fan
• lighter printed hotend housing
• side-spool mounts
• tramming bed knobs
• 270deg door hinge
• lid-riser with LED strips inside

Depends on the model. Sometimes printing separately is better! Sometimes printing together is better. It depends on the geometry. For example, if one color can act as support for the other. Printing materials on each other can be better bonding, too. It's also better in a high volume sense to have the machine do as much work as possible.

If you print with incompatible filaments (materials which don’t bond/adhere) you can get cheap, nearly perfect breakaway supports. I’ve done some rocket parts on my PrusaXL and it’s certifiably magic.

good question, this was just a test print honestly. My main use case will be doing TPU and PLA for phone cases for my store. Soft inside, hard outside. The tests I have done have the two materials completely fused together and are promising.

most full color prints can, and should, be printed separately and assembled later. I totally agree there, but there are times that isn't ideal.

I made a print that was a dial and small numbers with markings. This would have been a pain to glue 1.5mm wide pieces onto the main part. Multicolor printing made it super easy and the result is clean looking.

I'll probably print mostly single color, but I love having the flexibility