[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 5 points 2 months ago

I would love a replacement for keep. I'm currently running nextcloud and the UI differences or lack of android widgets are keeping my wife from switching. Most of of your list already has great replacements that exist but for some reason a keep competitor that is current just doesn't exist

Carnet is a nextcloud app that comes pretty close and but it needs a TON of TLC on the server side. I keep telling myself I'll work on it but life gets in the way. If you have time and know node/php I would suggest looking there instead of making yet another note app. Nextcloud can handle sharing and has some encryption stuff as other plugins etc. Otherwise keep posting here, I would love to follow your progress.

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 9 points 5 months ago

If you go on eBay there are dozens of listings for pictures of 5090s for the MSRP with the description "humans don't buy". I love it ✊

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 5 points 7 months ago* (last edited 7 months ago)

I was in a simiar boat, but once I started learning it really took off and I couldn't find enough things to model/fix! I started with meshmixer, it's pretty simplified but still somewhat powerful and I think Windows only. Once I found stuff I couldn't do with it I switched to blender and now I'm much faster with it. I found there are some things each implements better so if having an issue I'll switch and try something else. I highly recommend picking one and watching youtube videos specific to what you want to change in a model

Edit: you may be able to get by on some of the connectors by lowering flow too, depends on how dialed in your printer is, everyone needs different tolerances

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 6 points 9 months ago

Somewhat off topic but I've been using this lately and it's great https://github.com/jesseduffield/lazydocker. If all you want is a ui over docker this may be better than going all in on something like portainer

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 7 points 1 year ago

This is the exact opposite of my experience. We've been using codium in my org and 9/10 times it's garbage and they will not allow anything that is not on prem. I'm pretty consistently getting recommendations for methods that don't exist, invalid class names, things that look like the wrong language, etc. To get the recommendations I have to cancel out of auto complete, which is often times much better. It seems like it can make up for someone who doesn't have good workflows, shortcuts and a premium ide, but otherwise it's been a waste of time and money.

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 62 points 1 year ago

At least the song is 🔥

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 3 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago)

It could be a lot of things. Temperature is a big one, are you letting the bed heat up completely for a consistent amount of time before each print, could heat be impacting your measurements, some things measure different when heated a bit? You probably aren't printing enclosed, but my voron for example expands upwards almost an entire layer over the first hour of printing. Is there an intermittent air flow that could be impacting how hot your bed really is? Have you verified there is no slop or backlash in your z lead screws and connections? I had decent results on my sidewinder using POM anti backlash nuts. Same for the stability of your measuring tool. Have you checked that it's not z tilt from turning off the motors between prints?

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 4 points 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago)

Per https://help.prusa3d.com/article/xbuddy-and-loveboard-electronics-wiring-mk4_413095 it looks like you dont have any fan headers, you might be able to repurpose the unused ambient sensor header but no clue sorry. You might try splicing off the part or hotend fan? If you really wanted to use the dc input you might need a voltage step down buck converter or something depending on what your PSU is putting out

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 11 points 2 years ago

You might be able to but you really shouldn't. At the best you wouldn't have control over fan speed. Find the wiring diagram for the board and use a fan header

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 4 points 2 years ago

Oh hey I kinda helped get this started in a very round about way! Nice to see the fluid integration, maybe if I do the mainsail one, someone else will do it a better way lol. I've not been printing much lately but set spoolman up a while ago on the pi running my voron and it's been great.

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submitted 2 years ago* (last edited 2 years ago) by Dangerhart@lemm.ee to c/gaming@beehaw.org

DM me for a steam key, its a duplicate from the recent humble bundle for me. First one gets it

edit: claimed, sorry everyone

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 2 years ago

Magnetic is really important for me, how is that case with drops? I imagine it's pretty stiff/hard?

7

I can't quite seem to find a case I'm happy with. I usually get a plain clear all TPU case that is both pretty thin but good for drops. I don't care if it yellows and I don't really like the tough/OtterBox style bulky cases. I have the google case and my problems with it are the lack of camera bar coverage, I've already dinged mine, and how hard/not drop friendly the front half is. The back seems a little too soft, one of the corners is slightly torn from the previously mentioned drop, but I'd rather that than what the material of the front is. I picked up one of these from eBay https://www.ebay.com/itm/314678008376 but it doesn't close all the way, doesn't fit great in some spots and is also a little too hard, otherwise it would be great. At this point I'm leaning toward just using the google case and trying to find a skin to cover the camera. I'm also willing to pay a bit more if it hits everything I want. Anyone have good suggestions?

[-] Dangerhart@lemm.ee 2 points 2 years ago

That last point is a big one, for me putting 30 hours into a single VR game feels like putting 100 into a pancake.

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Dangerhart

joined 2 years ago