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What apps have you tried to "de-google" yourself?
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Interesting, I've had the exact opposite problem with Osmand last summer: Could not get it to use POV mode (not smart enough to navigate otherwise when cycling), it was always stuck on North Is Up (there's a button to change that on the upper left corner which they now changed to click and hold so I have my hopes up that it'll work now).
I wonder if Osmand is the one I tried that was so close to being usable for me, but didn't keep my location centered when North was up. I spent a day trying everything I could find, so I can't recall exactly. I'll give it a go though and see if it works.
I don't think you'll have much trouble finding one that works the way you want it because everything I tried used POV as the default for some perplexing reason. (Like if I was facing East for example, then East was up.)
I'm pretty sure Osmand centers the map in North Is Up mode but I'm not 100% certain.