Ahoy hoy!

I have a new build I'm tryin to cobble together but I can't get it to post the first time.

I have a ASRock B650E Taichi M/B, Ryzen 7 7600x cpu, an EVGA 850w Gold, a MSI 2060, 32 gig of ram, 1tb SSD and a 1000gig HDD, all in a Fractal Torrent case. I've hooked everything up and can see the RGB and smart switches light up, but when I hit either power button I get no response.

I've reseated the cables, removed the GPU, reseated the ram, waited hours, and nothin, not even the fans kickin up. What Am I missin?

I got inspired by these two articles https://hackaday.com/2024/11/17/a-handheld-gaming-pc-with-steam-deck-vibes/

https://hackaday.com/2024/11/03/beth-deck-is-a-framework-powered-gaming-handheld/

The aim of the game is to use generic, non-gaming branded hardware, and build a capable handheld gaming machine. How would you go about it?

I am thinking of buing one of these cpus for my upcoming server and I need some help in deciding which to buy.

As a precursory information, I already have a Noctua NH-L9x65 at hand, so I would like to use it for this project.

I am going to run software such as Nextcloud and Jellyfin and maybe some game servers every now and then.

The processors seem to be quite similiar in performance (same number of P and E cores), but Noctua compatibility centre (https://ncc.noctua.at/coolers/NH-L9x65-19) says the cooler could handle the 12600k better than the 14400 which I find weird, since the 14400 has lower TDP as well as lower base and boost clocks.

I prefer power efficiency over plain power in somewhat similiar products.

Which cpu would suit my needs better do you think?

I got a new monitor somewhat recently, and I have noticed it causing interference with my wifi card (Ax210, not sure what brand). The wifi gets really slow (like 1/10 speed, sometimes dropping connections) when the monitor is plugged in and goes back to normal when unplugged. I've tried multiple hdmi cables but it still does it. I know you can buy antennas that can be moved, but I'm not sure where to start looking for them. Does anyone have any recommendations or info?

Edit: solution was putting aluminum foil around GPU Iowa and cable

After nearly a decade of unbelievable service, and with price increases likely on the horizon, it's finally come time to retire my old desktop.

After some analysis, here's what I've settled on:

PCPartPicker Part List

Some quick explanations on decision making:

• Primary usage is a mix of gaming and CAD / 3D modeling / rendering.

• After Intel shit the bed one too many times, I'm definitely taking an AMD CPU. I could be convinced to go to the 7600X3D, but there seems to be a noticeable dropoff on non-gaming tasks, such as 3D modeling, and some debate about the viability of a 6-core CPU going forward.

• The two hard drives are listed as $0 because I already own them, and will be transferring them into this unit.

• 850W power supply should give me ample room for overclocking, adding future components, while still staying under that 80% load limit.

Open questions / things I'm uncertain on:

• CPU Cooler: I've heard that Ryzens can run hot, but I'm unsure if I need such a beefy one. For a 7700X, is it too much?

• RAM: Is 64GB a lot? Yes. RAM shortages plagued me until I brought my current machine up to 48GB. I thought 64 would carry me forward with room to spare. Is this silly?

• Went with a 4070 Ti Super for the 16GB RAM. Is it too much GPU for the rest of this rig?

Now, here's my big question: Micro Center nearby me is running combo deals for a 7700X or 7600X3D, Gigabyte or Asus motherboard, and 32GB RAM. Looking at what I'm trying to build, does that make sense? Would upgrading to 64GB with 4 sticks later be a problem?

I'm thinking about buying a new PC in the next month or two. I don't play a whole lot of recent games, though it'd be nice to have the option, and I think I'd probably end up with a capable GPU anyway if I want something capable of 3d rendering like Blender, and possibly fooling around with local LLMs.

Function wise, I'm thinking I want a solid CPU, and to stack it with RAM, VRAM, and storage. and I think liquid cooling might be overrated if I don't plan to OC it. It'll also likely be migrating to Linux in a year or two when Windows 10 finally dies, if there are hardware concerns with that.

Aesthetics wise, Mainly I am not too interested in having everything be RGB. I would also prefer plastic paneling over glass; my computer case hangs from a desk mount and in the unlikely event that it has a structural failure I'd like to be more worried about the computer hardware than picking shards out of my skin.

I'm not opposed to building something myself from parts, but I wouldn't mind looking at builders / pre built as an option.

Hey everybody! I am currently thinking about upgrading my graphics card, because I upgraded my monitor to 1440p.

My PC is currently running a Ryzen 5 3600 with 16 GB RAM and a RX 480 8GB that I have since forever. I don't really play any recent AAA titles, but I would be happy if I could run games like Metro:Exodus or DarkSouls3 smoothly.

One thing that would be a huge improvement would also be if the card was rather quiet, current card is rather loud due to running at max most of the time for modern games.

I was thinking about maybe buying a RX 7800 XT if I can get a good Black Friday deal on it.

I am a bit hesitant about getting a 3060Ti because it only sports 8 GB VRAM and I always had the feeling that the 8GB VRAM prolonged the lifetime of my RX 480 quite substantially.

My budget is between 300€ - 450€ (I'm currently living in Germany if that matters)

I'm happy to hear your thoughts and suggestions!

TLDR: I'm searching for a replacement for my Rx 480 8GB between 300€ - 450€ for 1440p gaming, a quiet card would be a plus

My current build is:

• 1080 GTX
• i7 7600
• 32gb DDR4
• 512Gb SSD (my worst decision)
• Built in 2016
• Running great knocks on wood

Due to the outcome of the election (not getting into how I feel about that), tariffs and electronics trade is likely to be a big issue. And I keep seeing articles about how pcs and consoles are likely to have a massive jump in price (40% is the # I keep seeing).

Ive been meaning to wholesale and make a new build for a while now because any update would likely mean a new mobo which in turn would mean updates on everything else. I'm not in the best situation financially and have a baby on the way but I could totally stand to drop ~$3K on another "future proof" build.

I guess the question is, should I pull the trigger now before the new administration takes power? Assuming 40% increase, a $3k pc would be $4.2k or I stick with $3k and sacrifice the difference in power and future proofing.

The alternative would be delve into lighter and "retro" games in the future and just be content with that. There's a few "2070RTX minimum" games I'd like to play right now and it will only get worse in that respect as time moves on.

Note: not looking to discuss the new administration in any other way but this. Please no political bullshit.

I have an aging Windows gaming box that needs an upgrade. With Trump winning the election, I anticipate tariffs on basically all PC parts, so I want to buy now. Here's my challenge:

I love quiet PCs. I have a Fractal Design Define R4, I think, which I bought for its sound insulating ability. I've always gone with air-cooling, and my fan curves are tuned to be quiet. That works great for my 2080 TI.

Now, however, I want to get the 4080 Super and a big beefy AMD processor. Is air cooling still going to cut it? Or am I going ot have to go for all-in-one water cooling loops to keep temperatures under control without having to listen to the turbines spinning up?

I know there are a lot of factors to consider, but basically I think Fractal Design has great products, so I would probably get another case from them and build the machine from the ground up. I just want to find the solution that lets the machine run without making a ton of noise while it sits on the floor next to me.

I have this laptop from like 2012 that I use a lot and I can even say it's my main Linux machine. It's got 8 Gb of RAM and a dedicated GPU so it's not bad but it has an HDD so slow it takes what seems to be 30-60 seconds to launch a web browser. I guess it's 5400 RPM. I want to finally buy an SSD for the machine.

However I noticed that all of the brand new ones that are available in my area are either SATA3 (for SATA) or PCIe 3/4 (for M.2). The laptop obviously supports none of these standards.

Will such an SSD work or do I have to search for a used one with an older standard (like SATA2)? Adapters might be a problem to get because I'm not a customer of marketplaces I can get them from so I'm afraid of getting scammed or just not figuring out the purchase procedure.

Upgrading from an 8700k to a 9800x3d once it’s out. It’s currently a long weekend in New Zealand so there are some decent sales, but we do suffer from a real lack of choice. E.G I'm sure somebody will recommend the Tomahawk but it’s out of stock and NZD 500.

My main criteria for a motherboard is having 3+ m2 slots. I’d previously found the ASUS TUF GAMING B650-E ATX for NZD360, but the MSI X670E GAMING PLUS ATX has recently been listed for NZD400.

I’ve previously almost exclusively used Asus mobos and am not concerned about Asus’ poor reputation for RMA as we have legal consumer protections that mean I deal with the retailer not Asus. So I’m happy to go ahead with the Tuf but wondering if it’s worth paying the extra $40 for an x670e board?

Anybody have experience with either mobo they can share?

Good day!

Important details here: it's been a hot minute since I did a PC build. (20 years.. I had to raise some kids.) so I am a little behind. Please be patient with me.

The intention of the build is to be a replacement Plex Server. Here's the specs:

Asus TUF x570 Pro with WiFi NVIDIA QUADRO M2000 AMD Ryzen 7 5800x

Here's the issue I'm facing: completed the hardware build and went to test. The Q-LED's show a BOOT and VGA error. BOOT makes sense. I haven't even formatted the NVME drives yet.

The VGA one though has me concerned. The AMD processor doesn't have integrated graphics so a GPU is necessary. The M2000 is seated correct and I even made sure to clean it before reseating it. Still nothing. No picture no BIOS screen.

My suspicion is I need a more directly compatable GPU with the motherboard so I can update the BIOS and maybe then it will work.

I'm sure someone's going to have a solution so obvious I'll be embarrassed but I'll deal with it. Thank you for any assistance.

Update. I moved the new GPU to my old machine and it booted up immediately. So we can remove GPU hardware broken as a possibility.

I kept the new version in the old machine and tried the old version in my new pc. Now the VGA Q-LED is off but still no picture on new pc. Old pc is fine.

Some details: I’m directly connected to the monitor from the GPU. NO KVM or any such nonsense in between. When I power on the screen turns on for a moment then turns off after a few seconds and after the last of the boot process completes where the Q-LED light is only lit for BOOT.

I'm having an issue and I don't know where else to post about it. I'd be grateful for any help or guidance.

My PC will randomly hard reset, usually when the PC is idle. This only seems to occur with DOCP enabled. I don't know much about PC hardware aside from how to build one. My PC runs Arch Linux (btw).

Motherboard: ASUS TUF Gaming X570-PRO

RAM: TEAMGROUP T-Force Dark Za (Alpha) 32GB DDR4 Dram 3600MHz (PC4-28800)

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X

Is this a good setup for the price? This is somewhere in Europe. A tech shop that allows you to choose your hardware and they assemble it for you.

I mainly want to play older and indie games on it. Some video editing as well, possibly. Current rig is a crappy pre-built which overheats like crazy, practically impossible to do any gaming on it. TIA for any answers.

Hello! Im searching for laptop in 1000-1500 Euro price range. Main requirement: CPU should be as fast as possible. I dont care about performance of individual cores, I need it to be fast from multicore perspective. Also optionally it should be compact, like macbooks.

Please share your recommendations. Thank you!

Im building my wife a PC and now that my SLI is useless (for a few years now), I figured I'd give her my extra GPU.

I disabled the SLI in the control panel, powered down, popped the SLI and 2nd GPU out and gave my wifes pc the extra 1080. My PC started up fine, I booted up a game, and about 10 min in, the screen froze for about 10 seconds and then appeared to restart and now I have no video output. Did I brick my gpu? Any ideas on how to proceed?

I'm only panicking a lot.

Currently I have a 1060GTX 6GB (Evga I think?). It struggled to run Elden Ring but was tolerable for me on medium settings - still it frequently drops from 60fps to 40fps or so, rarely able to stay at an even 60.

Can you suggest a modest upgrade compatible with my build? I'm not obsessed with getting max settings, but something that will work decently for 5 years or so would be nice. I don't have an exact budget in mind, but the absolute maximum I would consider is $400 Canadian (approx $300 USD). Prefer to save some money for performance and keep it around $200-$300 CDN, if possible

Here's my parts list started in 2016 - GPU listed is not the current 1060

https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/eezeebee/saved/#view=ntbqqs

My current pc specs are:

• Asus Prime H310M-K r2.0 (pcie 3.0 x16 max)
• I5-9400f
• Deep cool i35 cooler
• AMD Radeon Rx 580
• Kingston ddr4 1x16gb
• Corsair TX650
• Gigabyte G27Q monitor
• And two ssd's and a HDD

I have two options I have a budget of about 400 euros and I am thinking of upgrading as the PC is getting a little unresponsive in general use and gaming. Leaning towards option 1 as the cpu is almost always above 50% usage at idle as I use my PC as a server for jellyfin and some other services ,but with them off in-game the cpu is almost at 100% in tf2 and pretty much any other game and the gpu is at 70% unless in cs2 ,then if the quality is set any higher than low it is a literal slideshow.

Option 1:

• MSI Pro b650-s wifi
• AMD Ryzen 7600
• Crucial/Kingston ddr5 2x8gb

Option 2:

• Nvidia rtx 3060/3070 with broken HDMI output (both used)

Requirements:

• Motherboard Atx
• Cpu am5
• Must be available in Lithuania/EU for used parts only skelbiu.lt or eneba.lt

Hello! I've had a watercooled PC for a number of years, but more recently it's been difficult to find EKWB Cryofluid Clear at reasonable prices. I'm thinking of switching to something like Mayhem's x1 coolant, or Alphacool's eiswater.

Any suggestions? Will it matter that some old fluid might still be trapped in a rad even after a flush? I'm hoping to not do a full teardown.

I'm thinking about going with this:

https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/watercooling-fluids/watercooling-fluids-additives/mayhems-x1-coolant-1-liter-clear-mx1c1l.html

I recently stumbled my way through building a PC. i got the Intel Core i7-14700k with TEAMGROUP RAM (32GB [2x 16GB]; speed 6000, 38 CL [clock latency])

after looking into adding additional RAM, I learned a little bit about CAS/CL. My question, did I make a big mistake getting 38 CL? I focused on speed, but just learned about CL. Am I greatly missing out on performance with 38, or its not that big of a deal? Is there is big mismatch here between CPU and RAM?

thanks!

I'm saving up to get a 5700X3D around Christmas, upgrading from a 5600G, but I want to make sure I prepare properly before I do the swap.

The RAM I bought couldn't match the C18 @ 4000 M/Ts advertised and still remain stable, but I managed to manually overclock to C16 @ 3666. Should I drop to JDEC specs before I upgrade, or is it a non-issue?

Been slowly upgrading a prebuilt from 2009. I've upgraded everything but the mobo, ram, cpu, and cooler. Was hoping someone could do a sanity check on my build to make sure it's good for a few years at least.

Hello Im looking for small laptop for typing in low to mid range price. Do you have any recommendations? mnt pocket reform is here for reference what I want. Thank you

I have the T.16000M FCS HOTAS (throttle and stick) like this one linked on Amazon. When I search Amazon for "dust cover for hotas" I get listings that say "for Thrustmaster Warthog." Does anyone have the T.16000M, and if so, can you recommend a dust cover for those? Doesn't have to be custom fitting, any generic dust cover will do, my main concern is keeping dust from collecting in the ball joint of the stick and the rail of the thrust slider. Thank you!

EDIT: I'm thinking about getting this or this, or just going cheap with some clear plastic bags.