Does it really matter where you go? It's all federated together anyway, that's the whole point, isn't it?
I know that last one as the "sun" character (circle with rays coming out) but really I once learned it's a placeholder character for "your local currency sign".
Centrally Located Input Tool
TLDR = no answer is given in the article.
Zero trust, but you have to use Amazon AWS, Cloudflare, and make your own Telegram bot? And have the domain itself managed by Cloudflare.
Sounds like a lot of trust right there... Would love to be proven wrong.
I've made a large number of custom prints, and all of them were created using TinkerCad. It's an amazing toolkit, stupid easy to use but versatile. That is ... until something needs a tiny adjustment somewhere. That's when I feel it would've been neat to use parametric CAD instead.
I have spent many hours following Youtube tutorials for Onshape, Fusion, and FreeCAD. Tutorial shapes like a LEGO brick are fairly easy, although I admit that this kind of modeling is a sharp departure from the kid-friendly TinkerCad.
My problem is that I don't want to make simple coasters or keychains, but complex shapes like this one. It's a holder/mount for two different kinds of walkie-talkies that I use, and the blue part slides into a tray in my car's dash where it sits nice and snug.
Question: How the hell do I even get started modeling something like this?? There's not a single straight cuboid here. Everything is slightly wedge-shaped.
The way I do this in TinkerCad is that I build the hollow first: I made a 3d model of the walkie, a little oversized, set it be hollow, and drop it into the shape - that's the red or orange shells you see.
I'm in Europe and I have never in my life seen a gas station that dispenses every fuel through just one hose.
Every fuel has its own hose and "pistol". Each "pump" has two or three or four hoses.
Vimes' theory of boots!
The reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money. Take boots, for example. ... A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. ... But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while a poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.
Hi all! My very old Mitsubishi Pajero III (V60 from 2000) got a 2" lift kit and now the rear wheels have too much toe-out. The stock tie rods won't adjust far enough and there are no other original "sizes."
So I need some aftermarket tie rods for the rear axle. My own research tells me I need a shorter (longer?) version of the original part number MR508134 (Imgur).
Two questions:
(For the sake of completeness: the front tie rods have adequate adjustment range.)
edit: solved by printing at 20% of regular speed. This seems to give the filament enough time to ooze out of the nozzle, and the print result was excellent.
My Prusa MINI+ works like a charm, except with TPU. We have a 5-hour print task that starts well but fails after 2-3 hours because the TPU filament is no longer being pushed into the nozzle; instead it comes out of the extruder!
What could be causing this? Is the TPU just too soft and bendy? Is the shape of the extruder housing at fault?
It looks as if the TPU gets stuck and is then pushed into the extruder housing when the extruder continues to push. This happens again and again, but it's weird that it works well for hours before failing. The object is basically just a long block, so absolutely straightforward and no retractions.
We have checked that the nozzle is clean and has no obstructions. We have opened the extruder every time it happens, and there's no obvious problem to see (see photo 2 here).
We are considering to print a new lid for the extruder housing, see photo 3 here: (1) is the exit hole, and (2) is the cavity where the TPU ends up so it might help to change the lid (3) to a shape that does not leave a cavity there. Or is the problem that the roller (4) is too narrow or too soft?
For reference, the filament is Tinmorry black TPU from Amazon.
This is old news, and perfectly normal for stage work.
"mega-thin"? Is that like "micro-large"?
Pepperidge Farm remembers when journalists had a grasp of the language.
What a badly written article, wrongly explaining both the diff and the CV joint. That's not what they do or how they work.
The can opener was invented 30 years after the can.
Wow, thank you! I didn't know it was like that. I also didn't know that what I was reading as nonsense slarpnik is "solaspunk" and I still have no idea what that is but I'll google it. Never heard of Mander either, want to check out whether that's useful to me. Thanks!