SkyWatcher Star Adventurer is my grab and go kit for astronomy and I take it with me abroad too. I dont want to carry around steel counterweight when Im abroad, especially air travel with them can be costly. So I came up with this solution that holds two 0.5l cans to use as counterweight. On the V2 Ive also included screws and fitting threads unlike in the photo of the V1 with metal bolts and nuts.

Various knobs for cylinder head screws with M3/M4/M6 or M8 thread. For explanation, I have designed two different versions. The standard version has a hexagon socket integrated in the knob. The screw is inserted or glued onto this, whereby the thread length of the screw remains the same. The "thread" - version is for high stress when turning with a very large torque. For this purpose, the screw is screwed into the knob and glued in place. This shortens the screw by approx. 5 mm, but the connection is extremely strong and resilient.

Simple hooks on bracket designed to fit on VW T5. may fit other VWs can be printed on FDM or resin (I would advise a thicker wall with good drainage if resin, a solid print will not endure well)

Paint mixer model 2 The hole is 8mm with tolerance already applied. If you are interested in supporting my work and possibly having access to the original STEP file of this model, you can receive it with a small donation. The donation is voluntary, but any contribution is appreciated. Thank you for your support!

Door mounted container for sauce/gravy packets. Approx. 1.5in deep. Use a single 5lbs capacity command strip to mount.

This is a spoon that allows fast and precise spooning. You can easily fill your smallest and largest dessicant containers without spilling the tiny pearls - say goodbye to funnels. The unscaled spoon can hold ~12ml that is 10g of silica-gel pearls. Simple print, no supports, three walls, can be scaled if needed

This is an upgrade for the "Parkside Multi Grinder Holder" by rechena. Please also check the source creator. The changes are the following: The lower rear part has been reduced in height. The front part has been reduced in height, different for Parkside and Dremel. These changes were made to ensure the horizontality of the tool. Centering nuts were added, because the front support hole is wider. (3/4x12 for Dremel and 18x1.5 for Parkside) Screws have also been added to keep the original nuts when not in use. It is recommended that the nuts and screws be printed with the wider side down and at the finest resolution to ensure thread quality. Note: Fits Dremel 4000 and Parkside PFBS 160 C3

Exact same file as the one posted by HarderDIY just with the model rotated so it prints on end. Find it easier to remove the supports that way. I printed at 0.75 scale for a more reasonable size for a keychain. I may re-upload this with the prongs on the male end separated a touch as it has a bit more play than I would like when buckled together. EDIT: This is maybe not the best idea at 0.75 scale with PLA... broke in less than 24 hours due to the layer direction I think...might be better with PTEG or better layer adhesion. My printer isn't tuned the best right now so might be a me problem ahaha

Heyho I wanted to mix a few samples with different colours or additives with epoxy resin and was looking for small mixing sticks. Unfortunately I haven't found anything really suitable in size. So I constructed a mixing stick myself. It was so small that it could just be made cleanly with my 0.6 mm nozzle. XS = 24,5 mm Diameter S = 39 mm Diameter M = 49 mm Diameter L = 70 mm Diameter Of course all models are support free for a good print! Tip1: Mixing bowl. If you also want to print a mixing bowl, simply generate a cylinder in the slicer with a slightly larger diameter than the stirring rod and print it in vase mode. Tip 2: Scale. You can scale the models up or down even further. However, make sure that the tolerances also become larger/smaller. That is why I have generated different versions as a starting point for you. Assembling instructions: Printable versions: For the fully printable versions you only have to glue the axis with the mixer. If you stir epoxy resin with it, this bonding will occur and solidify over time anyway :P So a small dab of superglue is perfectly sufficient. Also keep in mind that you can scale the axis to lengthen or shorten it! Versions with a (wooden) stick: For these mixers you need (wooden) sticks with different diameters and 3 mm wood screws to fix them (glue may also work). The advantage is that these are even stiffer & more stable than 3D printed axes. It is advisable to pre-drill the logs with a smaller diameter to avoid tearing the wood. Wooden stick sizes: XS = 6 mm Diameter S = 8 mm Diameter M = 8 mm Diameter L = 10 mm Diameter Have fun and keep printin!

Hi guys! Here is my engine cover design for the well beloved Simson S51 Moped. It features a removable ignition cover, so you can replace it any time with the open one or with anything you like. It also features a regular clutch bowden adjuster/tensioner. I hope you will like this one! Other designs are coming soon. #LP @kiraly.d In order to fully assemble the part, you will need the following items: 6x M5x10 inner hex head bolts 6x M5 nuts regular clutch bowden adjuster/tensioner (!must have!) PET-G and ABS are recommended as a printing material.

4 original latches were broken, I tried to make them from different ones - with a larger wall thickness when printing, with a large infill, from PETG and SBS plastics. All broke down over time. I made a spring latch, there is nothing to break in it. need: 4ps screw M4 25 mm - for model Celling mount 2ps screw M4 25 mm, 4ps M4 12 mm - for model Wall mount spring D8~6 mm, length ~ 20 mm Wall mount part names start with a letter W (Wall) Ceiling mount part names start with a letter C (Celling) 4.10.22 Add on Made the TopPlate V2 and Plate V2 details. Now it should be easier to install the latch in place. 02.11.22 New model with vertical wall mount mechanism All details, except for the "PIN" detail, are redrawn. For wall mounting print details starting with the letter "W" (Wall). You will also need two M4x25mm screws and four M4x12mm screws. M4x12 screws will need to be threaded into the "Wwall" parts, screwed on both sides. The "Wwall" part is best printed as in the picture, using supports from the table to keep the round screw holes.

Boite de type container permettant le rangement des outils de l’imprimante Creality K1, il semblerait que cela ne puisse convenir à la K1 Max. La boite, haut et bas sont en PLA ainsi que le clip. Le reste est en TPU. Les différents axes de la boite sont réalisés directement avec du filament PLA. L’ attache clip, en TPU est renforcée avec un clou de 1 mm, permettant ainsi d’avoir à la fois de la rigidité et de la souplesse. ========= Container-type box for storing the tools of the Creality K1 printer, it looks like it can't fit the K1 Max. The box, top and bottom are in PLA as well as the clip. The rest is TPU. The different axes of the box are made directly with PLA filament. The clip attachment, made of TPU, is reinforced with a 1 mm nail, thus providing both rigidity and flexibility.